Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [406]
About 50m down the road, right on the beach, Reina’s (2798-0879; mains ₡3200-6000; 8am-last guest) has loud music, good vibes and plenty of mariscos (seafood) and cerveza (beer) on the menu.
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Moín
This is Puerto Limón’s main transportation dock. The reason you’re here, no doubt, is to catch a boat through the canals to Parismina or Tortuguero.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The journey by boat to Tortuguero can take anywhere from three to five hours, depending on how often the boat stops to observe wildlife (many tours also stop for lunch). Indeed, it is worth taking your time. As you wind your way through these jungle canals, you are likely to spot howler monkeys, crocodiles, two- and three-toed sloth and an amazing array of wading birds, including roseate spoonbills.
The route is most often used by tourist boats, which means that if the canal becomes blocked by water hyacinths or logjams, the route might be closed altogether. Schedules exist in theory only and they change frequently depending on demand. If you are feeling lucky, you can just show up in Moín in the morning and try to get on one of the outgoing tour boats. But you are better off reserving in advance.
Asociación de Boteros de los Canales de Tortuguero (Abacat; 8360-7325) Abacat operates regular service to Tortuguero (per person one-way US$30). Call for departure times.
Caribbean Tropical Tours (8371-2323, 2798-7027; wguerrerotuca@hotmail.com) A small, well-recommended company run by master sloth-spotter William Guerrero and his wife, it’s ideal if you want to book a leisurely ride to Tortuguero with plenty of pit-stops to see wildlife (per person one-way US$35).
Moín–Parismina–Tortuguero water taxi (2709-8005) Departs Moín at 3pm. Reservations are essential, especially if you are requesting a stop in Parismina. One-way to Tortuguero US$30.
Tropical Wind (2798-6059, 8313-7164, 8327-0317) Operates almost-daily shuttles between Tortuguero and Moín (per person one-way US$30).
Viajes Bananero (8833-1066, in San José 2222-8973) Though based in Tortuguero, with an office in San José, this company makes regular (though not daily) trips between Tortuguero and Moín (per person one-way US$35). Call ahead to reserve.
Tracasa buses to Moín from Puerto Limón (₡300, 20 minutes) depart from Terminal Caribeño hourly from 5:30am to 6:30pm. Get off the bus before it goes over the bridge. If you are driving, leave your car in a guarded lot in Limón.
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NORTHERN CARIBBEAN
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Running north–south along the country’s water-logged eastern shore, the Tortuguero Canal serves as the liquid highway that connects Puerto Limón to the lush lowland settlements to the north: Parismina, Tortuguero and Barra del Colorado. This is the wettest region in Costa Rica, a network of rivers and canals that are home to diminutive fishing villages and slick sportfishing camps, raw rainforest and all-inclusive resorts – not to mention plenty of wading birds and sleepy sloths.
Most significantly, the area’s long, wild beaches serve as the protected nesting grounds for three kinds of sea turtles. In fact, more green turtles are born here than anywhere else. Much of the region lies only a 15-minute flight from San José – but it nonetheless can feel like the end of the earth.
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PARISMINA
If you want to get a sense of what Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast was like prior to the arrival of mass tourism, this tiny coastal fishing village, wedged between the Tortuguero Canal and the Caribbean Sea, is an excellent spot to spend a little time. Bereft of zip lines, 4WD adventure tours and wi-fi everything, it’s the sort of spot where old men play dominoes on front porches and kids splash in muddy puddles in the street. It’s not fancy – but it’s real.
Sportfishing is the traditional tourist draw. (The top tarpon season is from January to mid-May, while snook are caught from September to November.) But a smattering