Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [454]
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Selva Verde Lodge
In Chilamate, about 7km west of Puerto Viejo, this former finca (plantation) is now an elegant lodge (2766-6800, in USA & Canada 800-451-7111; www.selvaverde.com; s/d incl breakfast US$107/125, incl all meals US$137/184; ) that protects over 200 hectares of rainforest. Guests can choose to stay at the river lodge, which is elevated above the rainforest floor on wooden platforms, or in a private bungalow, quietly tucked away in the nearby rainforest. Wood-floored rooms have private hot shower, screened windows, in-room safe and, of course, your very own hammock.
The lodge works closely with a tour company for over-55-year-olds called Exploritas and offers educational opportunities, guided tours and other interesting diversions, many of which nonguests can enjoy for a fee.
There are several kilometers of walking trails through the grounds and into the premontane tropical wet forest; you can either get a trail map or hire a bilingual guide from the lodge (US$17 per person, three hours). There’s also a garden of medicinal plants, as well as a butterfly garden (admission US$6, lodge guests free). Various boat tours on the Río Sarapiquí are also available, from rafting trips to guided canoe tours; locally guided horseback rides (US$29 for two to three hours) can also be arranged.
The Holbrook family, who own the lodge, fund the nonprofit Sarapiquí Conservation Learning Center (www.learningcentercostarica.org), through which guests can participate in cultural-exchange activities such as a charla (chat) over coffee, homestays or salsa-dancing lessons with locals. The center also partners with student groups to serve as a base for conservation and environmental education.
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Chilamate Rainforest Eco Retreat
Founded in 2009 by Sarapiquí native Davis Azofeifa and his Irish-Canadian wife Meghan Casey, Chilamate (2766-6949, 8842-1171; www.chilamaterainforest.com; dm US$17, s/d incl breakfast US$35/65;) is the most exciting new ecolodge project in the area. The young couple have spent three years building their little piece of paradise on 20 hectares of prime virgin rainforest. See also boxed text.
The four large cabins built by Davis and friends are basic but full of character, with comfy hand-crafted furniture, private bathroom, fan and traditional architectural style that provides natural air-cooling. Out back, the bunkhouse has 12 dorm beds with shared bathroom and kitchen, perfect for groups or those on a tight budget. Other resort amenities include a small bar, restaurant and laundry facilities. Davis and Meghan have two young children, so the resort is naturally quite kid-friendly. Covered, flat walkways allow you to move between buildings in the complex without ever getting wet (after all, this is the rainforest!).
Throughout the resort, sustainability is the key feature. Everything has been built with wood and other sustainable materials. The buildings are all designed to take advantage of natural lighting, cooling and insulation. Solar power provides much of the resort’s electrical needs, waste is recycled or composted and rainwater is recycled for cleaning and washing purposes.
Behind the cabins, 6km of paths wind through the jungle, where you might spot sloths, monkeys, toucans, frogs, snakes and more. The resort provides rubber boots for sloshing through the rainforest. Davis is a wealth of local information and can help arrange excursions in the area. For those who want a true ecolodge experience without the high ecotourism prices, we highly recommend Chilamate.
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PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUí & AROUND
At the scenic confluence of Ríos Puerto Viejo and Sarapiquí, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí was once the most important port in Costa Rica. Boats laden with bananas, coffee and other commercial exports plied the Sarapiquí as far as the Nicaraguan border, then turned east on the Río San Juan to the sea. Today, Puerto Viejo (the full name distinguishes it from Puerto