Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [459]
No matter when you visit La Selva, it will probably be raining. Bring rain gear and footwear that’s suitable for muddy trails. Insect repellent and a water bottle are also essential.
For the truly rugged do-it-yourself adventurers, it’s possible to hike from La Selva to the southernmost ranger stations in Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. For more information on hiking in Braulio Carrillo, Click here.
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Getting There & Away
Public buses between Puerto Viejo and Río Frío/Horquetas can drop you off 1km from the entrance to La Selva. It’s about 4km from Puerto Viejo, where you can catch a taxi for around ₡2320 to ₡3480.
OTS runs buses (₡5800) from San José on Monday. Make reservations when you arrange your visit, and note that researchers and students have priority.
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SUEñO AZUL RESORT
Yoga-retreat groups make up the majority of guests at Sueño Azul (2764-1000; www.suenoazulresort.com; s/d/ste US$100/122/174; ), a top-end resort upon a hill. Independent travelers interested in honing their yoga practice will appreciate the appeal of this peaceful place, especially at the secluded bamboo yoga platform if no groups have scheduled a stay. Spacious, airy rooms have a hot-water shower and bamboo furnishings, and are nestled on the grounds of this private jungle reserve. Hiking trails offer jungle walks to waterfalls, and the reserve can also be explored on horseback.
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HELICONIA ISLAND
This self-proclaimed ‘oasis of serenity’ is arguably the most beautiful garden in all of Costa Rica. Heliconia Island (2764-5220; www.heliconiaisland.com; s/d incl breakfast US$55/72, d with air-con US$85; ) is a masterpiece of landscape architecture that was started in 1992 by New York City native Tim Ryan, a former professor of art and design. Today, this 2.3-hectare island is owned by Dutch couple Henk and Carolien, and is home to more than 80 varieties of heliconias, tropical flowers, plants and trees. The grounds are a refuge for 228 species of birds (hummingbirds are the sole pollinators of heliconias). There are also resident howler monkeys, river otters and a few friendly dogs that will greet you upon arrival.
Henk and Carolien will guide you through the property, showing off a number of memorable plants including the Madagascar traveling palm, rare hybrids of heliconia found only on the island, and the Phenakospermum guyannense (Phenomenal sperm), a unique flowering plant native to Guyana. The admission fee (self-guided/guided tours US$11/17) is waived for overnight guests. You can stay in this oasis in immaculate raised cabins, which have stone floors, hot-water showers and breezy balconies.
Heliconia Island is about 5km north of Horquetas, and there are signs along the highway pointing to the entrance. When you arrive at the entrance, park your car, walk across the metal bridge and turn left on the island to reach the gardens.
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RARA AVIS
When they say remote, they mean remote: this private reserve (2764-3131; www.rara-avis.com; ), which is comprised of 13 sq km of high-altitude tropical rainforest, is accessible only to overnight guests willing to make the three-hour tractor ride (seriously!) up a steep, muddy hill to get there.
Rara Avis was founded by Amos Bien, an American who came to Costa Rica as a biology student in 1977. Amos is dedicated to environmental conservation, and has been involved in a number of ongoing sustainability projects since his arrival. The private reserve borders the eastern edge of Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo and has no real dry season. Bird-watching here is excellent, with more than 350 species sighted so far, while mammals including monkeys, coatis, anteaters and pacas are often seen. Visitors can use the trail system alone, or on guided hikes included in the cost of lodging. A popular jaunt is the short trail leading from the lodge to La Catarata, a 55m-high waterfall that cuts an impressive swath through