Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [47]
On Amón’s northern limit lies TEOR/éTica (Map; 2221-6971; www.teoretica.org; cnr Calle 7 & Av 11; admission by donation;10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat), a contemporary art museum housed in a vintage mansion, each of its elegant rooms featuring cutting-edge works by established and emerging figures from Latin America (such as Costa Rican artist Priscilla Monge, who is well known for her wry embroideries). This young museum features the private collection of the TEOR/éTica foundation, a nonprofit organization that supports Central American art and culture. It is an important gathering spot for regional artists, who arrive to attend lectures, workshops and other events.
Just across the street is Kiosco SJO (Map; 2258-1829; www.kioscosjo.com; cnr Av 11 & Calle 7; 11am-6pm Mon, 11am-10pm Tue-Sat), a gallery and design boutique run by architect Juan Ignacio Salom that is focused on showcasing sustainable design and the work of Latin American artists and artisans. If all the browsing makes you hungry, head to the lovely onsite cafe, Kalú (Click here).
On Amón’s southeastern edge, the smaller yet charming Galería Andrómeda (Map; 2223-3529; andromeda@amnet.co.cr; cnr Calle 9 & Av 9; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-5pm Sat) is a free local art space featuring works by emerging artists, as well as a selection of literary magazines (in Spanish), among other publications.
ZOOLÓGICO NACIONAL SIMÓN BOLÍVAR
It may seem ironic to visit a zoo (Map; 2233-6701; www.fundazoo.org; Av 11 btwn Calles 7 & 9; adult/child US$4/3; 8am-3:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4:30pm Sat & Sun; ) in one of the most biologically rich countries in the world. But this is a popular spot with local families, who pour in on weekends to peek at the animals. It’s rough around the edges – the cages are cramped and a few readers have complained of the animals’ filthy living spaces – but it can serve as a basic primer on area wildlife for small children. If you have time for a day trip, a much better option is Zoo Ave outside Alajuela (Click here).
PARQUE NACIONAL & ENVIRONS
One of the nicest of San José’s green spaces is the Parque Nacional (Map; Avs 1 & 3 btwn Calles 15 & 19), a shady spot where retirees arrive to read newspapers and young couples smooch coyly on concrete benches. At its center is the Monumento Nacional, a dramatic statue (erected in 1953) that depicts the Central American nations – with Costa Rica in the lead – driving out American filibuster William Walker (see boxed text for more on that episode). The park is studded with myriad monuments devoted to key figures in Latin American history, including Cuban poet, essayist and revolutionary José Martí, Mexican independence figure Miguel Hidalgo and 18th-century Venezuelan poet and thinker Andrés Bello.
Across the street, to the south, stands the Asamblea Legislativa (Legislative Assembly), which also bears an important statue: this one a depiction of Juan Santamaría – the young man who helped kick the pesky Walker out of Costa Rica – in full flame-throwing action.
Less than a block to the east is the old train station to the Atlantic, the Estación del Ferrocarril de Costa Rica (Map; Av 3 btwn Calles 17 & 23), which was built in 1908. Though the building is closed (it most recently housed a children’s museum), it’s nonetheless a remarkable example of tropical architecture (and a good photo op), with swirling art nouveau–inspired beams and elaborate stonework all along the roofline.
One block to the west of the park, is Jacob Karpio Galería (Map; 2257-7963; Av 1 btwn Calles 11 & 15; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri), the city’s preeminent gallery, featuring established contemporary artists from around the region, including Priscilla Monge.
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Central San José West
PARQUE CENTRAL AREA
WORD ON THE STREET
Alfonso Peña is a born-and-bred josefino who edits the literary magazine Matérika (www.materika.org) and helps manage Galería Andrómeda in Barrio Amón (above).
What makes San José a compelling cultural center? Naturally,