Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [472]
The Maleku (colloquially referred to as the Guatuso) are one of the few remaining indigenous groups in Costa Rica. Unlike other pre-Columbian populations, the Maleku are closer in stature to Europeans, and their skin tone is comparatively lighter than that of other groups in Central America. Historically, the Maleku were organized into 12 communities that were scattered around the Tilarán-Guanacaste range and the Llanura de San Carlos.
Although their numbers dwindled following the arrival of Spanish colonists, the population survived relatively intact until the early 20th century. With the invention of the automobile, the US rubber industry started searching for new reserves to meet the increasing demand for tires. With the aid of Nicaraguan mercenaries, industry representatives scoured Central America for stable reserves, which were found on Maleku-inhabited land. The resulting rubber war virtually wiped out the population, and confined the survivors to a handful of communities. Today, the Maleku number around 400, and live in the three palenques (settlements) of Sol, Margarita and Tonjibe.
As is the situation with most indigenous groups in Costa Rica, the Maleku are among the poorest communities in the country, and they survive by adhering to a subsistence lifestyle. Their diet revolves around corn and the tipuisqui root, a traditional food source that grows wild in the region. Fortunately, since the Maleku have a rich artisan tradition, they are able to earn a small income by selling traditional crafts to tourists. Although their modern crafts primarily consist of pottery, jewelry, musical instruments and other small trinkets that are desirable to tourists, historically they were renowned for their impressive jade work and arrow craftsmanship.
The Maleku are also famous for their unique style of clothing known as tana. Although it’s rare to see modern Maleku wearing anything other than Western-style clothing, tana articles are often offered to tourists for purchase. Tana is actually tree bark that has been stripped of its outer layer, soaked in water and then pounded thin on wooden blocks. After it has been dried and bleached in the sun, it can be stitched together like leather, and has a soft texture similar to suede.
Despite being small in number, the Maleku have held on to their cultural heritage, perhaps more than any other indigenous group in Costa Rica. This is especially evident in their language, which is one of the oldest in the Americas and linguistically distinct from the Amazonian and Maya dialects. Today, the Maleku still speak their language among themselves, and a local radio station, Radio Sistema Cultural Maleku, airs daily programs in the Maleku language. The Maleku have also maintained their ceremonial traditions, such as the trimonthly custom of crying out to Mother Nature for forgiveness through ritualistic song and dance.
As with all indigenous reservations in Costa Rica, the Maleku welcome tourists as craft sales are vital to their survival. You can access the palenques via Rte 143, though it’s best to inquire locally for directions as the roads are poorly maintained and unsigned. While you’re at the palenque, please be sensitive to their situation and buy a few small crafts. If you can, you might also consider bringing some small, useful gifts such as pencils, pens and paper, for the schools. And of course, avoid giving handouts such as money and candies, as this will only create a culture of begging.
The caves get rave reviews from folks fond of giant spiders, swarms of bats and eyeless fish. A guide takes you through the caves, including a few tight squeezes, pointing out various rock formations and philosophizing about what they sort of look like.
Drop-ins are welcome, but it’s best to make reservations so you don’t need to wait around for a group. You’re provided with a guide (some speak English), lights, helmets and showers afterward. You’ll definitely want to bring a change of clothes. There’s a small onsite soda, and a few restaurants in Venado, but no lodging.
We