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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [500]

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where they are planning to go. Single women should use even greater discretion.

THE CASE OF THE FLAT TIRE & THE DISAPPEARING LUGGAGE

A serious scam is under way on the streets around Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría. Many readers have reported similar incidents, so take precautions to ensure this doesn’t happen to you. Here’s how it goes…

After picking up a rental car and driving out of the city, you notice that it has a flat tire. You pull over to try to fix it. Some friendly locals, noticing that a visitor to their fair land is in distress, pull over to help out. There is inevitably some confusion with the changing of the tire, and everybody is involved in figuring it out, but eventually the car repair is successfully accomplished and the friendly Ticos (Costa Ricans) give you a wave and drive off. That’s when you get back in your car and discover that your wallet – or your luggage, or everything – is gone.

This incident has happened enough times to suggest that somebody may be tampering with rental cars to ‘facilitate’ these flat tires. It certainly suggests that travelers should be very wary – and aware – if somebody pulls over to help. Keep your wallet and your passport on your person whenever you get out of a car. If possible, let one person in your party stay inside the car to keep a watchful eye. In any case, lock your doors – even if you think you are going to be right outside. There’s nothing like losing all your luggage to put a damper on a vacation.

Hitchhiking in Costa Rica is not common on main roads that have frequent buses. On minor rural roads, hitchhiking is easier. To get picked up, most locals wave to cars in a friendly manner. If you get a ride, offer to pay when you arrive by saying ¿Cuánto le debo? (How much do I owe you?). Your offer may be waved aside, or you may be asked to help with money for gas.

USING TAXIS IN REMOTE AREAS

Taxis are considered a form of public transportation in remote areas that lack good public-transportation networks. They can be hired by the hour, the half-day or full day, or you can arrange a flat fee for a trip. Meters are not used on long trips, so arrange the fare ahead of time. Fares can fluctuate due to worse-than-expected road conditions and bad weather in tough-to-reach places.

The condition of taxis varies from basic sedans held together by rust, to fully equipped 4WDs with air-con. In some cases, taxis are pick-up trucks with seats built into the back. Most towns will have at least one licensed taxi, but in some remote villages you may have to get rides from whoever is offering – ask at pulperías (corner grocery stores).

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LOCAL TRANSPORTATION

Bus

Local buses operate chiefly in San José, Puntarenas, San Isidro, Golfito and Puerto Limón, connecting urban and suburban areas. Most local buses pick up passengers on the street and on main roads. The vehicles in service are usually converted school buses imported from the USA, and they are often packed.


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Taxi

In San José taxis have meters, called marías, but many drivers try to get out of using them, particularly if you don’t speak Spanish. With that said, it is illegal not to use the meter, so don’t be afraid to point this out if you feel as if you’re about to be scammed. Outside of San José, however, most taxis don’t have meters and fares tend to be agreed upon in advance – some bargaining is quite acceptable.

In some towns, there are colectivos (taxis that several passengers are able to share). Although colectivos are becoming increasingly difficult to find, the basic principle is that the driver charges a flat fee (usually about US$0.50) to take passengers from one end of town to the other.

In rural areas, 4WD jeeps are often used as taxis and are a popular means for surfers (and their boards) to travel from their accommodations to the break. Prices vary wildly depending on how touristy the area is, though generally speaking a 10-minute ride should cost between US$5 and US$15.

Taxi drivers are not normally tipped unless they

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