Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [54]
Casa Ridgway (Map; 2222-1400, 2233-6168; www.amigosparalapaz.org; cnr Calle 15 & Av 6bis; dm US$14, s/d US$22/34, without bathroom US$16/30; ) A small, welcoming guesthouse, on a quiet side street near the Supreme Court complex is run by the adjacent Friends’ Peace Center, a Quaker organization that promotes social justice and human rights. The rooms are immaculate, as are the shared showers and communal kitchen – and the atmosphere is, well, peaceful. There is a small lounge and a lending library offers an extensive collection of books on Central American politics and society. This isn’t the place for party people – no smoking or alcohol is allowed and quiet hours are from 10pm to 6am.
Casa Hilda (Map; 2221-0037; c1hilda@racsa.co.cr; Av 11 btwn Calles 3 & 3bis; s/d/tr US$20/30/45) Run by the charming Quesada family, this simple peach-colored guesthouse has five basic, clean rooms with private bathrooms surrounding a peaceful courtyard. Check out the natural spring in the center of the house that has been bubbling potable water for more than 90 years (even during dry season). Credit cards accepted.
Hotel Aranjuez (Map; 2256-1825; www.hotelaranjuez.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 11 & 13; s/d/tr from US$29/42/49, s/d without bathroom US$22/25, all incl breakfast; ) This rambling hotel in Barrio Aranjuez consists of several nicely maintained vintage homes that have been strung together with connecting gardens. The 35 spotless rooms come in a variety of configurations, and the private ones are equipped with lockboxes and cable TV. The hotel’s best attribute, however, is the lush garden patio, where a heaping breakfast buffet is served every morning (don’t miss the omelet bar). Though the architecture can be a bit creaky and the walls thin, the service is efficient and the hotel is a solid, family-friendly, budget option. Credit cards accepted.
Cinco Hormigas Rojas (Map; 2255-3412; www.cincohormigasrojas.com; Calle 15 btwn Avs 9 & 11; r incl breakfast US$30-58; ) A one-of-a-kind B&B that is a riot of plants – literally, you have to walk through a tunnel of branches just to get to the front door – as well as a riot of everything else. Every nook and cranny of this snug, four-room inn features a piece of art or embellishments crafted out of papier-mâché (not to be missed: the Frida Kahlo altar and the papier-mâché toilet). All of it is the vision of multilingual hippie chick Mayra Güell, who – in addition to being terrifically friendly – treats her guests to daily breakfasts featuring macrobiotic breads, fresh jams and juices and organic coffee. Art is available for purchase, and every traveler leaves with a small handmade gift.
Casa Alfi (Map; 2233-1805, 8866-0572; www.casaalfihotel.com; Calle 3 btwn Avs 4 & 6; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$30/40/50; ) Steps from the Teatro Nacional, a simple two-story structure surrounds a bright covered courtyard, around which nine guest rooms are located. The rooms (which vary in size and layout) are simple but come equipped with TV, telephone, private bathroom and lockbox, and feature folk-art touches. It’s a sleepy spot, despite being in the middle of the downtown hubbub. Credit cards accepted.
Costa Rica Guesthouse (Map; 2223-7034; www.costa-rica-guesthouse.com; Av 6 btwn Calles 21 & 23; d with/without bathroom US$45/35; ) In a house dating from 1904, this recent addition to the San José budget scene (it opened in 2009) has simple, graceful rooms with spacious bathrooms and hallways lined with Spanish tiles. Furnishings are basic (the beds are creaky), but it’s a tranquil, couples-friendly spot – operated by the owners of Costa Rica Backpackers, which lies across the street (guests of the hotel are welcome