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Hotel Don Carlos (Map; 2221-6707; www.doncarloshotel.com; Calle 9 btwn Avs 7 & 9; s/d US$65/75, s/d deluxe US$75/85, all incl breakfast; ) Built around an early 20th-century house that once belonged to President Tomás Guardia, this lovely Barrio Amón inn exudes a colonial-era vibe. Thirty-three rooms in various sizes, configurations and decor are nestled around a pre-Columbian–themed sculpture garden with a sundeck, tables and a small swimming pool (ideal for kids). All rooms come equipped with cable TV, lockbox and hair dryer. Don’t miss the Spanish-tile mural, just outside the onsite restaurant, which beautifully depicts central San José in the 1930s. Rates include a welcome cocktail; credit cards are accepted.

Hotel Santo Tomás (Map; 2255-0448; www.hotelsantotomas.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 3 & 5; d incl breakfast US$80-120; ) This stately early 20th-century colonial-style mansion is a Barrio Amón landmark that once belonged to the Salazar family of cafetaleros. There are 30 rooms of varying sizes, some of which are located within the mansion itself (expect slightly frayed accommodations, with high ceilings and period furnishings), while others occupy a recent addition in the back. These newer rooms are the best: equipped with brocaded bedspreads, modern bathroom, balcony and flat-screen TV. There is a garden courtyard with a solarium, swimming pool, a Jacuzzi and a small open-air gym. English is spoken; the hotel is also gay-friendly.

Fleur de Lys Hotel (Map; 2223-1206; www.hotelfleurdelys.com; Calle 13 btwn Avs 2 & 6; s/d US$82/93, junior ste/master ste US$110/127, all incl breakfast; ) A pristinely maintained century-old Victorian mansion painted a bright shade of lavender houses 30 spotless wood-paneled rooms with firm beds, ceiling fans and wicker furnishings. There is a small onsite bar that hosts a daily happy hour – and, on special occasions, there is live music. The staff is attentive and the location central (note the proximity of the train tracks). Credit cards accepted.

Raya Vida Villa (Map; 2223-4168; www.rayavida.com; Calle 15, off Av 11; s/d incl breakfast US$85/95, extra person US$20; ) This long-running B&B, housed in a secluded hilltop villa, reflects owner Michael Long’s interest in art and antiques. The house, built in the Spanish colonial style, has a patio with a fountain, a fireplace and a small garden, while an upstairs deck is a pleasant spot with city views. Five well-appointed rooms have polished wood floors, bright floral linens and expansive bathrooms, one of which has a whirlpool tub. For the taxi driver: the hotel is 100m north of Hospital Calderón Guardia on Calle 17, then 50m west on Av 11, then another 50m north.

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All of the following hotels accept credit cards.

Hotel Villa Tournon (Map; 2233-6622; www.costarica-hotelvillatournon.com; 100m west of Centro Comercial El Pueblo; s/d US$95/125, s/d superior US$125/135; ) A pleasant, modern hotel has 80 simple, businesslike rooms with wood floors and cable TV, and amenities such as a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, gym and casino. Rooms facing south have nice views.

Gran Hotel Costa Rica (Map; 2221-4000; www.grandhotelcostarica.com; Calle 3 btwn Avs Central & 2; d standard/superior US$96/121, junior ste/ste/master ste US$168/260/283, all incl breakfast; ) The city’s first prominent hotel was constructed in 1930 and is today recognized as a national landmark (John F Kennedy and soccer legend Pelé have both stayed here). Frequent renovations have kept the 104 rooms modern and comfortable, though they retain period touches such as brass bed frames and wood furnishings. Some of the units have wonderful views of the Teatro Nacional, and here and there are subtle architectural reminders of the hotel’s history: exposed beams, molded ceilings and the dramatic entrance hall – lined with vintage photographs of San José. The alfresco Café Parisienne (Click here) is one of the most popular tourist cafes in the city. There are two restaurants and a bar.

Another worthwhile chain option is Clarion