Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [61]
La Esquina de Buenos Aires (Map; 2223-1909; cnr Calle 11 & Av 4; dishes ₡4900-13,000; 11:30am-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; ) Spanish-tile floors, bright white linens and the sound of old tangos evoke the atmospheric bistros of San Telmo – making this one of the top spots in the city for a steak and a glass of Malbec. Also tasty are the house-made empanadas (turnovers stuffed with meat or cheese) and the extensive selection of fresh pastas, including vegetarian options such as tender raviolis stuffed with mozzarella and fresh basil. There’s a good wine list (bottles from ₡4500), attentive service and flickering candlelight, making this an ideal place for a date.
Café Parisienne (Map; 2221-4000; Plaza de la Cultura; mains ₡8200-18,000; 24hr) Part of the Gran Hotel Costa Rica, this European-style cafe is perfect for people-watching, and you can’t beat the views of the Teatro Nacional. The meals are overpriced and fairly ordinary, though the waitstaff will leave you alone if you just order a coffee (espresso ₡1000).
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Central San José West
The city’s hectic commercial heart has some of the cheapest eats in town – with a modern cafe or two to keep things interesting.
Churrería Manolo’s (Map; Av Central btwn Calles Central & 2, Av Central btwn Calles 9 & 11; churros ₡200-275, mains ₡2400-3500, casados ₡2420; 7am-10pm) This San José institution is famous for its cream-filled churros (doughnut tubes), which draw crowds of josefinos in search of a quick sugar rush. Here’s a tip – churros are the freshest around 5pm when hungry office workers beeline here straight from work. Otherwise, this is a popular spot for breakfast and lunch (though the food and service are uninspired).
Pastelería Merayo (Map; Calle 16 btwn Paseo Colón & Av 1; pastries ₡400-1000; closed Sun) This informal pastry shop has a wide variety of freshly baked, cavity-inducing goodies. The coffee is strong and it’s a sweet way to pass the time if you’re waiting for a bus at the Coca-Cola terminal.
Café del Correo (Map; 2257-3670; Correo Central, Calle 2 btwn Avs 1 & 3; coffee ₡850-1600; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Adjacent to the central post office is this mellow cafe that draws everyone from businessmen to teenagers on dates – and is a nice, central place to rest your feet. The cortados (espresso with a dollop of steamed milk) are good, and there are some sinful drinks, too – such as whiskey-laced Irish coffee (from ₡2250).
Soda Castro (Map; Av 10 btwn Calles 2 & 4; dishes ₡1800-3000, sundaes ₡2300; 11am-9:30pm; ) It’s not in the best neighborhood, but this casual, six-decade-old Tico spot is a good place to feed the sweet tooth. You’ll find sundaes and banana splits, but it’s the house-made paletas (fresh fruit pops) that make this spot worth the walk. They come in a variety of seasonal flavors, including fantastically dreamy toasted coconut.
Q Café (Map; 2221-0707; www.quecafe.com; 2nd fl, cnr Av Central & Calle 2; mains ₡3900-5900; 8am-8:30pm Mon-Sat) A sleek, monochromatic cafe with excellent views of the ornate Correo Central in the distance, this modern 2nd-story spot is perfect for coffee drinks (including delicious iced mocha) and pastries. There is also a full menu of savory snacks. Try the empanadas, which go well with the cafe’s homemade hot sauce.
One of the cheapest places for a good lunch is at the Mercado Central (Map; Av Central btwn Calles 6 & 8), where you’ll find a variety of sodas serving casados, tamales, seafood and everything in between. A good spot is Mariscos Poseidon (Map; Mercado Central Annex; mains ₡2000-3800), a narrow, blue-and-yellow seafood joint run by the congenial Doris in the central market’s northern annex, just off Av 1. The ceviche mixto appetizer (fish, shrimp and octopus marinated in lime juice) is tasty and cheap, as are the generous portions of seafood-studded rice. Afterwards, head across the street to the main market for dessert at Helados de Sorbetera