Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [63]
La Bastille (Map; 2255-4994; www.la-bastille-restaurante.com; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 22; mains ₡6800-11,000; noon-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Sat) This five-decade-old bistro serves French classics such as escargot, onion soup, steak tartare and cordon bleu dishes.
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DRINKING
Whatever your poison may be (ours is guaro sour – local firewater made with sugarcane), San José has plenty of venues to keep you lubricated – from local dives to trendy lounges. For many more drinking options, see the nearby neighborhoods of Los Yoses and San Pedro (Click here). The price of a beer will vary depending on the venue, but count on spending ₡1200 and up. Take your ID; some places card everyone upon entering.
Note that some enterprising thieves have taken to lurking around popular spots, waiting to relieve drunken party people of their wallets. When leaving a bar late at night, keep your wits about you and take a taxi.
Bar Chavelona (Map; 2221-6094; Av 10 btwn Calles 10 & 12; 5pm-5am) Nestled amid a row of auto body shops on the west side of town (in other words: take a taxi), this renowned bar, which dates back to 1927, was the spot where Costa Rican author Carlos Luis Fallas (1909–66) once enjoyed happy hour in the company of the local intelligentsia. The bohemian atmosphere is long gone – replaced by an ’80s decor that screams Duran Duran – but it remains a pleasant Tico spot for beer and bocas (savory bar snacks).
Bar Morazán (Map; 2222-4622; 2nd fl, Hotel Costa Rica Morazán, Calle 7 btwn Avs 1 & 3; 11am-2am) Decidedly local, in the heart of the San José tourist belt, this humble little bar has reasonably priced drinks, a sports-betting window, a stack of TVs displaying the games and a supersized mural of dogs playing poker. Awesome.
Centro Comercial El Pueblo (Map; ) This Spanish Mediterranean outdoor mall is a warren of bars, clubs and music venues. The proximity of one place to the next makes it ideal for a pub crawl and there is stringent security, which keeps the atmosphere generally safe (though it can get unruly in the wee hours). Things usually get going at about 9pm and shut down by 3am. One of the best spots to sip is the newly opened Bacará (Map; 2222-1883/8782; open from 11am to 3am), on the southwest corner of the complex, which has a broad, open terrace with excellent city views.
Chelle’s (Map; 2221-1369; cnr Av Central & Calle 9; 24hr) If you’re boozing the night away with Ticos, you might find yourself here at 4am, clutching a cold one and telling people you just met that you love them. The greasy menu will help you soak up the booze.
El Morazán (Map;2256-5110; cnr Calle 9 & Av 3; cocktails ₡2500-3000; noon-midnight) Facing the Parque Morazán, this exposed-brick, Spanish tile–clad space dates back to 1904. Throughout its long life it has hosted all manner of historical figures (including Che Guevara, according to one account). Though it recently came under new ownership, it remains a popular hangout among Chepe’s young artsy set. In addition to beer, there is a full menu of classic cocktails and snacks. On some nights, there is live music.
La Embajada (Map; Av 1 btwn Calles Central & 1; 10am-1am) This cavernous, smoke-filled spot – occupied largely by men – is an ideal daytime drinking dive. Its main advantage is that if anyone asks where you’re headed, you can simply say ‘The Embassy.’
Rapsodia Lounge (Map; 2248-1720; www.rapsodialounge.com; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 40; 5pm-2am) A hyper-chic see-and-be-seen lounge clad in stark black-and-white furnishings has an extensive list of cocktails and a menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes and snacks. Guest DJs can often be found setting the mood.
Other good spots for a tipple include the Café Parisienne at the Gran Hotel Costa Rica (Click here) or El Patio, overlooking