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Teatro Nacional de Cuba ( 879-6011; cnr Paseo & Calle 39; per person CUC$10; box office 9am-5pm & before performances) One of the twin pillars of Havana’s cultural life, the Teatro Nacional de Cuba on Plaza de la Revolución is the modern rival to the Gran Teatro in Centro Habana. Built in the 1950s as part of Jean Forestier’s grand city expansion, the complex hosts landmark concerts, foreign theater troupes, La Colmenita children’s company and the Ballet Nacional de Cuba. The main hall, Sala Avellaneda, stages big events such as musical concerts or plays by Shakespeare, while the smaller Sala Covarrubias along the back side puts on a more daring program (the seating capacity of the two salas combined is 3300). The 9th floor is a rehearsal and performance space where the newest, most experimental stuff happens. The ticket office is at the far end of a separate single-story building beside the main theater.

Teatro Mella ( 833-5651; Línea No 657 btwn Calles A & B) Occupying the site of the old Rodi Cinema on Línea, the Teatro Mella offers one of Havana’s most comprehensive programs, including an International Ballet Festival, comedy shows, theater, dance and intermittent performances from the famous Conjunto Folklórico Nacional. If you have kids, come to the children’s show Sunday at 11am.

Sala Teatro Hubert de Blanck ( 833-5962; Calzada No 657 btwn Calles A & B) This theater is named for the founder of Havana’s first conservatory of music (1885). The Teatro Estudio based here is Cuba’s leading theater company. You can usually see plays in Spanish on Saturday at 8:30pm and on Sunday at 7pm. Tickets are sold just prior to the performance.

Teatro Nacional de Guiñol ( 832-6262; Calle M btwn Calles 17 & 19) This venue has quality puppet shows and children’s theater.

If you understand Spanish, it’s well worth attending some of the cutting-edge contemporary theater that’s a staple of Grupo Teatro Rita Montaner in the Sala Teatro El Sótano ( 832-0833; Calle K No 514 btwn Calles 25 & 27; 5-8:30pm Fri & Sat, 3-5pm Sun), not far from the Habana Libre. Performances are Friday and Saturday at 8:30pm and Sunday at 5pm. Also check Café Teatro Brecht (cnr Calles 13 & I), where varied performances take place (tickets go on sale one hour before the performance).

Classical Music

Teatro Amadeo Roldán (Map; 832-1168; cnr Calzada & Calle D, Vedado; per person CUC$10) Constructed in 1922 and burnt down by an arsonist in 1977, this wonderfully decorative neoclassical theater was rebuilt in 1999 in the exact style of the original. Named after the famous Cuban composer and the man responsible for bringing Afro-Cuban influences into modern classical music, the theater is one of Havana’s grandest boasting two different auditoriums. The Orquesta Sinfónica Nacional play in the 886-seat Sala Amadeo Roldán, while soloists and small groups are showcased in the 276-seat Sala García Caturla.

Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís (Map; Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana Vieja; tickets CUC$3-8; from 6pm Thu-Sat) Plaza de San Francisco de Asís’ glorious church, which dates from 1738, has been reincarnated as a 21st-century museum and concert hall. The old nave hosts choral and chamber music two to three times a week (check the schedule at the door) and the acoustics inside are excellent. It’s best to bag your ticket at least a day in advance.

Cinemas

There are about 200 cinemas in Havana. Most have several screenings daily and every theater posts the Cartelera Icaic, which lists show times for the entire city. Tickets are usually CUC$2; queue early. Hundreds of movies are screened throughout Havana during the Festival Internacional del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano in late November/early December. Schedules are published daily in the Diario del Festival, available in the morning at big theaters and the Hotel Nacional. Here’s a list of the best movie houses:

Cine 23 & 12 (Map; 833-6906; Calle 23 btwn Calles 12 & 14, Vedado) One of a clutch of well-maintained cinemas