Cuba - Lonely Planet [110]
Historically, Havana’s Industriales – known colloquially as Los Leones Azules (Blue Lions) – have the best series record with 11 titles to their name as of 2008. Emulating the New York Yankees – or soccer’s Manchester United – they are Cuba’s ‘glory’ team, retaining fans all over the country, but also attracting an equally vociferous contingent of naysayers who’d pay to see them lose.
In the face of weak local opposition (Havana’s other team, the Metropolitanos, are perennial underachievers), the Industriales’ traditional rivals are the combative Avispas (Wasps) from Santiago de Cuba, who they meet six times a season to replay a grudge match that has been going on ever since Havana stole the mantle of Cuban capital in 1607.
The Havana-Santiago domination was interrupted briefly in the 1990s by strong teams from Villa Clara (who won a hat trick of titles between 1993 and 1995), and Pinar del Río (who logged two straight wins in 1997 and 1998). The biggest surprise in recent years, however, was when a journeyman team from Holguín appeared out of nowhere to steal Cuba’s baseball crown in 2002.
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Sala Polivalente Ramón Fonst (Map; 881-4196; Av de la Independencia, Vedado; admission 1 peso) Basketball and volleyball games are held at this tatty-looking stadium opposite the main bus station.
For boxing, try Kid Chocolate (Map; 861-1546; Paseo de Martí, Centro Habana), directly opposite the Capitolio, which usually hosts matches on Friday at 7pm, or Gimnasio de Boxeo Rafael Trejo (Map; 862-0266; Cuba No 815 btwn Merced & Leonor Pérez, Habana Vieja). Here you can see matches on Friday at 7pm (CUC$1) or drop by any day after 4pm to watch the training. Travelers interested in boxing can find a trainer here. Enquire within; they’re very friendly.
Havana, with its spectacular Malecón sea drive, boasts one of the world’s most scenic municipal jogging routes. The sidewalk from the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta to the outer borders of Miramar measures 8km, though you can add on a few extra meters for holes in the pavement, splashing waves, veering jineteros and old men with fishing lines.
The recent upsurge in fume-belching traffic has meant that the air along the Malecón has become increasingly polluted. If you can handle it, run first thing in the morning.
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SHOPPING
Art Galleries
The art scene in Havana is cutting edge and ever changing, and collectors, browsers and admirers will find many galleries in which to while away hours. The following list is just a pinprick; there are at least a dozen studios in Calle Obispo alone. For gallery events, look for the free Arte en La Habana, a triquarterly listings flyer (the San Cristóbal agency on Plaza de San Francisco de Asís usually has them; Click here).
HABANA VIEJA
Casa de Carmen Montilla ( 866-8768; Oficios No 164; 10:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) An important art gallery named after a celebrated Venezuelan painter who maintained a studio here until her death in 2004. Spread across three floors, the house exhibits the work of Montilla and other popular Cuban and Venezuelan artists. The rear courtyard features a huge ceramic mural by Alfredo Sosabravo.
Estudio Galería Los Oficios ( 863-0497; Oficios No 166; 10am-5:30pm Mon-Sat) Pop into this gallery to see the large, hectic but intriguing canvasses by Nelson Domínguez, whose workshop is upstairs.
Taller de Serigrafía René Portocarrero ( 862-3276; Cuba No 513 btwn Brasil & Muralla; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Paintings and prints by young Cuban artists are exhibited and sold here (from CUC$30 to CUC$150). You can also see the artists at work.
CENTRO HABANA
Galería La Acacia ( 861-3533; San Martín No 114 btwn Industria & Consulado; 10am-3:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) This important gallery behind the Gran Teatro de La Habana has paintings by leading artists like Zaida del Río, plus antiques. Export permits are arranged.
VEDADO
Sevando Galería del Arte ( 833-9399; cnr Calles 23 & 10; 9am-6pm Tue-Sat) This cool gallery next to the