Cuba - Lonely Planet [117]
CUBANACáN
The leading art academy in Cuba is the Instituto Superior de Arte (ISA; Calle 120 No 1110), established in the former Havana Country Club in 1961 and elevated to the status of institute in 1976. The cluster of buildings – some unfinished, some half-restored, but all gloriously graceful due to the arches, domes and profuse use of red brick – was the brainchild of Che Guevara and a team of architects. Among them was Ricardo Porro, who designed the striking Facultad de Artes Plásticas (1961) with long curving passageways and domed halls in the shape of a reclining woman. Some 800 students study here, and foreigners can too (Click here).
Also known as the Havana Convention Center, the Palacio de las Convenciones ( 208-5199; Calle 146 btwn Avs 11 & 13) is one of Cuba’s most dramatic modern buildings. Built for the Nonaligned Conference in 1979, the four interconnecting halls contain a state-of-the-art auditorium with 2101 seats and 11 smaller halls. The 589-member National Assembly meets here twice a year and the complex hosts more than 50,000 conference attendees annually. Not far from here is Pabexpo ( 271-6614; cnr Av 17 & Calle 180), 20,000 sq meters of exhibition space in four interconnecting pavilions that hosts about 15 trade shows a year.
Many of Cuba’s cutting-edge scientific and medical facilities are out here, including Centro de Ingenería Genética y Biotecnología (CIGB; 271-6022; cnr Av 31 & Calle 190), the focus of Cuba’s genetic engineering and biotechnology research; the Centro Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas (Cenic; 208-2546; cnr Av 25 & Calle 158), where the anticholesterol wonder drug Ateromixol, or PPG, was created; and the Centro Internacional de Restauración Neurológica (Ciren; 271-6844; cnr Av 25 & Calle 158), where Cuba has developed breakthrough neurological treatments. All these installations are heavily guarded, so unless you’re a patient, don’t even think about visiting.
Museo del Aire ( 271-0632; Calle 212 btwn Avs 29 & 31, La Lisa; unguided/guided CUC$2/3, camera CUC$2; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun) has 22 planes and helicopters on display, most of them ex-military aircraft. Don’t miss Che Guevara’s personal Cessna 310, or the space suit used by Cuba’s first cosmonaut.
Activities
There are many water activities available at Marina Hemingway in Barlovento, 20km west of central Havana. Fishing trips can be arranged at Marlin Náutica ( 204-6848; cnr Av 5 & Calle 248, Barlovento) from CUC$150 for four anglers and four hours of bottom fishing, and CUC$280 for four anglers and four hours of deep-sea fishing. Included are a captain, sailor, open bar and tackle. Marlin season is June to October. Scuba packages for CUC$35 per dive and tours of Havana’s littoral (CUC$60 in a catamaran) can also be arranged. Hotel tour desks should also be able to arrange these things.
La Aguja Marlin Diving Center ( 204-5088; cnr Av 5 & 248, Barlovento), between Cubanacán Náutica and the shopping center, offers scuba diving for CUC$30 per dive, plus CUC$5 for gear. It has one morning and one afternoon departure. A diving excursion to Varadero or Playa Girón can also be arranged. Reader reviews have been favorable.
Sleeping
MIRAMAR
Casas Particulares
Marta Rodríguez ( 203-8596; Calle 42 No 914; r CUC$40; ) There aren’t so many casas in Miramar, but Marta’s could be worth the trip. There are art-deco beds, TV, VCR, a music system and lots of space in the two rooms here. Look for the shiny 1959 Mercedes parked outside.
If Marta’s full, try Rina & Geraldo ( 202-4112; Av 3A No 8610 btwn Calles 86 & 88, Playa; r CUC$25-30), who rent two clean rooms, one with a sun