Cuba - Lonely Planet [120]
Paladar La Cocina de Lilliam ( 209-6514; Calle 48 No 1311 btwn Avs 13 & 15; noon-midnight) Slick service, secluded ambience and freshly cooked food to die for, La Cocina de Lilliam has all the ingredients of a prize-winning restaurant par excellence. Set in an illustrious villa in Miramar and surrounded by a garden of trickling fountains and lush tropical plants, diners can tuck into such Cuban rarities as chicken mousse and tuna bruschetta in an atmosphere more European than Caribbean. Not a cheese and ham sandwich in sight!
Paladar Calle 10 ( 205-3970; Calle 10 No 314 btwn Avs 3 & 5; noon-3pm & 6-11pm) Paladar Calle 10 is situated in – ur – Calle 10 in the ‘posh’ Miramar neighborhood and, while the name might be a little unimaginative, the food certainly isn’t. Set up barbecue-style in the owner’s back garden, the alfresco seating is arranged under an attractive thatched canopy and the printed menu is both varied and adventurous. Delicious main dishes include octopus (CUC$5), ropa vieja (CUC$7) and a tempting chicken in balsamic vinegar (CUC$8). Portions are huge and arrive with assorted roasted vegetables and a memorable pureed potato. There are even profiteroles for dessert.
Paladar La Fontana ( 202-8337; Av 3A No 305) Havana discovers the barbecue or, more to the point, the full-on charcoal grill. Huge portions of meat and fish are served up in this amiable villa-cum-paladar, so go easy on the starters which include crab mixed with eggplant, quail eggs and fried chickpeas. La Fontana specializes in just about everything you’ll never see elsewhere in Cuba, from lasagna to huge steaks. Big-shot reviews from the Cigar Aficionado and the Chicago Tribune testify the burgeoning legend.
Paladar Vista Mar ( 203-8328; Av 1 btwn Calles 22 & 24; noon-midnight) The Paladar Vista Mar is in the 2nd-floor family-room-turned-restaurant of a private residence in Miramar that faces the sea. The oceanside ambience is embellished by a beautiful swimming pool that spills its water into the sea. If enjoying delicious seafood dishes overlooking the crashing ocean sounds enticing, this could be your bag. Most mains run from CUC$8 to CUC$15 with salad.
La Esperanza ( 202-4361; Calle 16 No 105 btwn Avs 1 & 3; 6:30-11pm, closed Thu) Few would disagree that the food, ambience and gastronomic creativity showcased at this unassuming Miramar paladar puts it among Havana’s (and undoubtedly Cuba’s) best eating establishments. While unspectacular from the street, the interior of this house is a riot of quirky antiques, old portraits and refined 1940s furnishings. The food, which is produced in a standard-sized family kitchen, includes such exquisite dishes as pollo luna de miel (chicken flambéed in rum), fish marinated in white wine, lemon and garlic, and a lamb brochette.
Don Cangrejo ( 204-4169; Av 1 No 1606 btwn Calles 16 & 18; noon-midnight) Right on the seafront, this unique seafood restaurant is run by the Ministry of Fisheries and scores high points for atmosphere and service. Fresh fish dishes include red snapper, grouper and prawns (CUC$8 to CUC$12), while lobster plucked from the pit on the terrace comes in at CUC$20 to CUC$25.
El Tocororo ( 202-4530; Calle 18 No 302; meals CUC$12-35; noon-midnight) Once considered (along with El Aljibe) to be one of Havana’s finest government-run restaurants, El Tocororo has lost ground to its competitors in recent years and is often criticized for being overpriced. Nonetheless, the candlelit tables and inviting garden are still worth a visit, while the unprinted menu, with such luxuries as lobster’s tail and (occasionally) ostrich still has the ability to surprise. El Tocororo also has a small attached sushi bar and restaurant called Sakura.
Supermercado 70 (cnr Av 3 & Calle 70; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)