Cuba - Lonely Planet [145]
Activities
HIKING
It’s possible to climb the Sierra de Las Casas from the west end of Calle 22. A few hundred meters along a dirt track, you will see a trail on the left toward the hills. At the very foot of the hill is a deep cave with a concrete stairway leading down to the local swimming hole. The trail beyond this is fairly obvious, but mark your way mentally so you can return without a worry. A stone on the mountaintop is inscribed ‘pilot’s seat,’ and from here you can see most of the north of the island.
Festivals & Events
Fiesta de la Toronja (Grapefruit Festival) is held on Isla de la Juventud every March. Pucker up for this one.
Sleeping
CASAS PARTICULARES
Odalis Peña Fernández ( 32-23-45; Calle 10 No 3710; r CUC$15-20; ) You’ll get spoilt at this large house with two economical rooms and kitchen privileges. Meals are half the price of those on the main island and the hosts are home-loving and keen to please. It’s three blocks north of Cubana office, signposted ‘Peña Village’.
Villa Mas – Jorge Luis Mas Peña ( 32-35-44; Calle 41 No 4108 Apt 7 btwn Calles 8 & 10; r CUC$15-20; ) Forget the rather ugly apartment block setting; there are two above-average rooms here with recently refurbished full marble baths. Jorge and his partner are formidable cooks who’ll serve you dinner on their refreshing rooftop terrace. It’s just outside the town behind the hospital.
Villa Choli – Ramberto Pena Silva ( 32-31-47; Calle C No 4001A btwn Calles 6 & 8; r CUC$20) If Villa Mas is full, try this place instead – it’s reader-recommended.
HOTELS
Many people offering private rooms meet the arriving ferries. This is the best way to go, as you’ll have a room right in town, and your hosts will provide you with filling meals. Otherwise, Nueva Gerona’s state-run hotels are south of town.
Villa Isla de Juventud (Gran Caribe; 32-32-90; Autopista Nueva Gerona–La Fe Km 1; s/d incl breakfast CUC$29/33; ) Situated about 5km from the airport and 2.5km from Nueva Gerona, this is the best accommodation option and has friendly staff to boot. There are 20 rooms with fridges in two-story, four-unit blocks. Framed by the island’s twin marble mountains, Villa Isla de Juventud has a surprising amount of atmosphere. The villa’s reputation is enhanced by a suspension bridge behind the hotel that crosses the Río Las Casas.
Motel El Rancho El Tesoro (Islazul; 32-30-35; s/d CUC$31/36) This friendly motel lies in a wooded area near the Río Las Casas, 3km south of town, just off the Autopista Nueva Gerona–La Fe. The 60 rooms are in five long blocks of 10 rooms each, with another 10 rooms upstairs in a two-story building near the entrance.
Eating
Casas particulares (most of which are licensed to serve food) serve better-value meals than any of the state-run restaurants. You might try El Doblón, the restaurant in Villa Isla de Juventud.
RESTAURANTS
El Cochinito ( 32-28-09; cnr Calles 39 & 24; noon-11pm, closed Wed) Get your pork steaks, yucca, rice and beans here and eat alfresco out the back.
Restaurante El Dragón ( 32-44-79; cnr Calles 39 & 26; meals CUC$3; noon-10pm, closed Wed) Specializes in Chinese food, but there’s little selection and it’s not recommended for vegetarians. There’s sometimes live music after 8pm and there’s always a big gong to beat if the inspiration hits.
Pizzería La Góndola (cnr Calles 30 & 35; noon-10pm) Offering a break from the pork-chicken-congrí (rice flecked with beans) cycle, the pizza here is on par with other Cuban pizza places.
Restaurante La Vajilla ( 32-46-92; Calle 37 btwn Calles 20 & 22; mains CUC$4; noon-9pm, closed Thu) For cheap comida criolla (Creole food) try this large hangar-like building that becomes a disco at night.
Cafetería La Cocinita ( 32-46-40; Calles 18 & 41; 24hr) This is a good place for peso sandwiches and juice or more substantial meals in the nicer sit-down section in the back.
Cafetería El Avión ( 32-29-70; cnr Calles 41 & 40; 10am-7pm) Another peso place. The adjacent snack counter is open 24 hours.
Coppelia ( 32-22-25; Calle 37