Cuba - Lonely Planet [157]
El Rápido (Martí No 64 btwn Recreo & Colón; 24hr) Yes, Pinar del Río’s struggling restaurant scene might be scant enough to merit a visit to Cuba’s proverbial McDonald’s where the chickens are born fried and soggy pizzas materialize microwaved.
La Casona ( 77-82-63; cnr Martí & Colón; 11am-11pm) Hard to believe, but this is Pinar’s best government-run restaurant outside Rumayor. Encouragingly there are tablecloths and wine glasses, along with steak, chicken and pasta on the menu, but positioned unstrategically on the town’s busiest nexus the hissing hustlers are never far away. Get a seat away from the door.
Rumayor ( 76-30-51; Carretera a Viñales Km 1; noon-midnight) The best food in Pinar del Río is probably at Islazul’s Rumayor, located 1km north of the town center, off the Carretera a Viñales. Justly famous for its succulent pollo ahumado (smoked chicken), you’ll pay a little extra here (CUC$10 to CUC$15), but it is definitely worth it – as is the walk. This is Pinar’s premier cabaret spot in the evening (see below).
GROCERIES
Mercado agropecuario (Rafael Ferro; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) Pinar del Río’s colorful open-air market is almost on top of the tracks near the train station. You’ll see the odd tour group tramping through here getting a grip on Special Period economics.
La Mariposa organopónico (cnr Carretera Central & Av Aeropuerto) A conveniently located organic fruit and vegetable market; and a good place to get a close-up look at Cuban’s urban agriculture program.
Other self-catering options:
Panadería Doña Neli (cnr Gerardo Medina Sur & Máximo Gómez; 7am-7pm) Gives you each day your daily bread.
Supermercado El Comercio (cnr Martí Oeste & Arenado; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) Believe it or not, one of the best supermarkets in town.
Entertainment
Casa de la Música (Gerardo Medina Norte No 21; admission CUC$1; concerts start at 9pm nightly) After warming up at Café Pinar, many revelers cross the street for more live music here.
Café Pinar ( 77-81-99; Gerardo Medina Norte No 34; admission CUC$1-4; 10am-2am) This place gets the local youth vote and is also the best place to meet other travelers. Situated on a lively stretch of Calle Gerardo Medina there are live bands at night on the open patio, and light menu items such as pasta, chicken and sandwiches to quench your appetite during the day.
Rumayor ( 76-30-51; Carretera a Viñales Km 1; noon-midnight) As well as serving good food (opposite), this Palmares place metamorphoses at night from Tuesday through Sunday as a kitschy cabaret with a floor show that starts at 11pm (CUC$5 cover). It’s not the Tropicana, but it ain’t half bad.
Disco Azul (cnr Gonzales Alcorta & Autopista; admission CUC$5; from 10pm Tue-Sun) A drab hotel, but a kicking disco – this glittery nightclub in Hotel Pinar del Río is the city’s most popular.
Teatro Lírico Ernesto Lecuona (Antonio Maceo Oeste No 163) Near the cigar factory, this theater is best for classical music and opera.
Patio Milanés (cnr Martí & Colón) With the Milanés back in business you’d be foolish to miss this theatrical patio alongside the real deal. Check the schedule posted outside for nightly cultural activities.
Cine Praga ( 75-32-71; Gerardo Medina Norte No 31) Next to Coppelia restaurant, Cine Praga shows mostly subtitled films; also look here for the video schedule at Uneac (Antonio Maceo No 178 between Rafael Ferro and Comandante Pinares; movies screened at 8:30pm and 10:15pm).
Shopping
ARTex ( 77-83-67; Martí Este No 36; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) It sells souvenirs, CDs and T-shirts.
La Casa del Ron (Antonio Maceo Oeste No 151; 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) Near the cigar factory, sells the same merchandise as ARTex, plus plenty of the strong stuff.
Casa del Habano ( 77-22-44; Antonio Maceo No 162) Right opposite the tobacco factory, this store is one of this popular government cigar chain’s better outlets with