Cuba - Lonely Planet [164]
Even if you’re staying in a casa, it’s worth strolling the 2km uphill to the astounding Hotel Ermita where you can swim in the gorgeous pool (CUC$7, including bar cover) or book a massage (CUC$20-35). Hotel Los Jazmines has an equally amazing pool (CUC$5) though the ubiquitous tour buses can sometimes kill the tranquility.
Casa owners in Viñales are particularly adept at being able to rustle up all number of activities more or less on demand. One particularly resourceful couple is Yoan & Yarelis Reyes ( 79-32-63; Rafael Trejo No 134) who not only rent out rooms in their engaging casa but also organize walks, cycling tours, massage, salsa lessons and visits to a nearby farm and tobacco plantation. The services are enhanced by the fact that Yarelis is a qualified national park biologist and Yoan’s father owns a Garden of Eden–like Finca, 1km out of town, nestled beneath the steep mogotes. For a small fee he’ll take you there (and onto the Cueva de la Vaca) to sample fruit, coffee and a dose of throat-warming rum. It’s sublime.
Tours
Cubanacán ( 79-63-93; Salvador Cisneros No 63C; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) organizes perennially popular day trips to Cayo Levisa (CUC$29), Cayo Jutías (CUC$22), San Tomás Cave (CUC$10) and María la Gorda (CUC$32). There’s an organized valley bike tour for CUC$20 and horseback riding from CUC$5. Official park hikes leave from here daily (CUC$8).
Sleeping
There are some 250 houses renting rooms in Viñales, and most of them are pretty good. Shop around and you’ll always find space somewhere. The two hotels within walking distance of Viñales village are both spectacularly located gems.
CASAS PARTICULARES
Villa Nelson ( 79-32-68; Camilo Cienfuegos No 4; r CUC$15-20; ) Loquacious Nelson has been around for ages surviving Gustav, Ike, high taxes and more. He still offers a prized local cocktail known as Ochún (rum, honey and orange juice) in his homely backyard along with two recently renovated rooms with baths.
Villa Chicha (Camilo Cienfuegos No 22; r CUC$15-20) This is a basic but comfortable room in the home of gracious señora. Meals are shared with the Villa Blanca ( 69-69-44) next door, which rents a similarly-sized room.
‘Villa Los Reyes’ – Yoan & Yarelis Reyes ( 69-52-25; yarelis@pnvinales.co.cu; Rafael Trejo No 134; r CUC$20; ) A great house with all amenities; this young couple can organize everything from salsa dancing to Spanish lessons. Yarelis is a biologist at the national park and Yoan has Viñales running through his veins.
Oscar Jaime Rodríguez ( 79-33-81; Adela Azcuy No 43; r CUC$20; ) Oscar’s something of a local legend, not so much for his casa (though he rents two rooms), but for his role as the king of climbing in Viñales (and consequently Cuba). Not surprisingly, there’s plenty of room out back for nonguests to mix, mingle and plan sorties up the mogotes.
Ubaido Chirino Suárez ( 79-32-26; Adela Azcuy No 35; r CUC$20; ) After having chunks ripped out of her house by Hurricane Gustav, Ubaido was planning a 2009 relaunch. This place is a separate apartment with its own entry, terrace, lounge, rocking chairs, kitchen and two bedrooms.
Hostal Doña Hilda ( 79-60-53; Carretera Pinar del Río Km 25 No 4; r CUC$20-25; ) One of the first houses in town on the road from Pinar del Río, Hilda’s house is small, unpretentious, and classic Viñales – just like the perennially smiling hostess.
Villa Pitín & Juana ( 79-33-38; Carretera Pinar del Río Km 25 No 2; r CUC$25; ) Two rooms on separate floors and a fantastic family atmosphere make this a great place to stay. But the highlight is the food, cooked with true amor (love), and ranking among the best in Cuba.
Villa Liana & Lily ( 69-53-54; liana86@correodecuba.cu; Carretera Pinar del Río Km 25 No 7; r CUC$25; ) The same family as above and the same wonderful hospitality. Liana is new to the game and rents one room with private entry and cooks meals made with vegetables plucked straight from the garden out back.
HOTELS
La Ermita (Cubanacán; 79-60-71; s/d incl breakfast CUC$56/70; ) While Los Jazmines might edge the prize for best