Cuba - Lonely Planet [168]
Viñales has numerous well-known climbing routes and a handful of skillful Cuban guides, but there is no reliable equipment hire (bring your own) and no adequate safety procedures in place. Everything you do, you do at your own risk, and that includes any sticky situations you may encounter with the authorities (although they generally tend to turn a blind eye). Also bear in mind that unregulated climbing in a national park area has the potential to damage endangered flora and ecosystems. Proceed with caution and care.
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Tours
Cubanacán ( 79-63-93; Salvador Cisneros No 63C; 8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat) is conveniently located in the center of Viñales village opposite the main square and organizes excursions everywhere from Cayo Levisa to the Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás. The staff is helpful. Havanatur is next door.
Sleeping
Campismo Dos Hermanas (Cubamar; 79-32-23; s/d CUC$9.5/13; ) This place, trapped between the sheer-sided jaws of the Dos Hermanas (literally ‘two sisters’) mogotes and in view of the Mural de la Prehistoria, is (along with Aguas Claras) one of Cubamar’s best international campismos. The 54 two- and four-bed concrete cabins are frequented by campers, climbers and cyclists and the facilities easily rival those of a two-star hotel. Bonuses include a restaurant, pool and horseback riding, and a couple of trails start outside the gate. The only incongruity is the loud music that spoils the tranquil ambience of this beautiful valley. The campismo is a full Campertour facility.
Hostal Las Magnolias ( 79-62-80; Carretera a Esperanza Km 38; CUC$25; ) Under renovations at the time of writing, this small building with three rooms (restaurant attached) opposite the Cueva del Indio offers a cheap alternative to Hotel Rancho San Vicente.
Hotel Rancho San Vicente (Cubanacán; 79-62-01; Carretera a Esperanza Km 38.5; s/d CUC$35/55; ) After Viñales’ two spectacularly located hotels, you probably thought it couldn’t get any better, but Rancho San Vicente does a good job trying. Situated 7km north of the village, this highly attractive hotel nestled in a grove with two dozen or more wooden cabins is lush and – for once – the interior furnishings match the magnificent setting. There’s a restaurant, pool, massage facility and short bird-watching hike on-site.
Eating & Drinking
La Casa del Veguero ( 97-60-80; 10am-5pm) Just outside Viñales toward Pinar del Río, this ranchón (rural restaurant) serves mediocre à la carte items. It’s a stop on the Viñales bus tour and also popular on the tour bus circuit; there’s a secadero (drying house) adjacent.
Mural de la Prehistoria Restaurant ( 79-62-60; 8am-7pm) Steep but almost worth it, the Mural’s humungous CUC$15 set lunch – tasty pork roasted and smoked over natural charcoal – ought to keep you going until tomorrow’s breakfast.
El Palenque de los Cimarrones ( 79-62-90; noon-4pm) If you’re exploring the murky Cueva de San Miguel, you’ll be unsubtly ushered through this restaurant as you grope for the exit. It’s an odd combination of folklore show, eating joint and plantation slavery museum, but the young Cubans dressed as cimarrones (runaway slaves) don’t really stimulate the appetite.
El Ranchón ( 79-61-10; Carretera a Esperanza Km 38; 8am-5pm) Eat here! You won’t forget the experience. The set meal, which is (judging by the crowds) a proverbial rite of passage on the tour bus circuit, is melt-in-your-mouth delicious. You pay CUC$11 for a huge traditional spread of roast pork and all the trimmings, and it trumps almost anything else you’ll eat in Cuba.
Entertainment
Unesco World Heritage Sites aren’t renowned for their nightlife, hence Viñales’ nocturnal tranquility. Your one sporadic option is the Cueva San Miguel, where the bar in the entrance cave sometimes puts on a reasonable cabaret show.
Getting Around
Bike, car, moped or the Viñales Bus