Cuba - Lonely Planet [171]
Sitting aside the Río San Diego, the village enjoys an attractive natural setting; with the Sierra de los Órganos to the west, and the higher Sierra del Rosario to the east. The Sierra de Güira on the Pinar del Río side of San Diego de los Baños is a nature reserve with pine, mahogany and cedar forests, and a favorite spot for bird-watchers.
Sights & Activities
BALNEARIO SAN DIEGO
The balneario ( 73-78-80; 8am-5pm) is a decrepit-looking bathing complex where thermal waters of 30°C to 40°C are used to treat all number of muscular and skin afflictions. The sulfurous waters of these mineral springs are potent and immersions of only 20 minutes per day are allowed (CUC$4/6 for collective/private pools). Mud from the Río San Diego is also used here for revitalizing mud baths (CUC$20). Other health services include massage (CUC$25) and a 15-day course of acupuncture; but don’t expect fluffy towels and complementary cups of coffee. The Balneario San Diego is more like a Moroccan hammam than a five-star hotel facility, though it’s perennially popular with Cubans undergoing courses of medical treatment, plus the odd curious tourist.
If you’re looking for cold water, you can swim at the Hotel Mirador pool (admission CUC$1; 9am-6pm). Two blocks over from the Hotel Mirador is the gracious old Hotel Saratoga (1924), complete with columns, mosaic tiling and elderly Cubans oiling the rocking chairs on the porch.
PARQUE LA GüIRA
Five kilometers west of San Diego de los Baños lies the surreal Parque La Güira, an abandoned – and vaguely spooky – country mansion surrounded by 219 sq km of protected parkland. Known formerly as the Hacienda Cortina, this rich man’s fantasy-made-reality was built in the style of a giant urban park during the 1920s and ’30s by wealthy lawyer José Manuel Cortina who plunked a stately home in its midst. Various remnants of the estate remain – most notably the grand crenellated entry gate, along with a gatehouse, the ruins of a Chinese pavilion and large clusters of bamboo – but there’s little structure to the surrealism. Wander round on your own and soak up the atmosphere or head for the unimpressive state-operated restaurant 1km beyond the gate for great views (the facilities were closed at time of writing). The complex behind is reserved for vacationing military personnel. You’ll need a car, bike or taxi to get here.
CABAñAS LOS PINOS
Twelve kilometers west of San Diego de los Baños via Parque La Güira is the Cabañas Los Pinos, an abandoned mountain retreat used by Castro’s secretary Celia Sánchez in the 1960s. The cabins are built like tree houses above the ground with Sánchez’ circular abode standing in the center of the eerie, shuttered complex. It’s another rather surreal curiosity that gets few visitors but is worth a spare hour or two of silent contemplation. Ask at Hotel Mirador in San Diego de los Baños for directions.
CUEVA DE LOS PORTALES
During the October 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis, Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara transferred the headquarters of the Western Army to this rather spectacular cave (admission CUC$1), 11km west of Parque La Güira and 16km north of Entronque de Herradura on the Carretera Central. The cave is set in a beautiful remote area among steep-sided vine-covered mogotes and was declared a national monument in the 1980s. A small outdoor museum contains a few of Che’s roughshod artifacts including his bed and the table where he played chess (while the rest of the world stood at the brink of nuclear Armageddon). Three other caves called El Espejo, El Salvador and Cueva Oscura are up on the hillside. This area is excellent for bird-watching. Trips can be arranged at the Hotel Mirador (below) in