Cuba - Lonely Planet [175]
The Sendero La Serafina is a 4km loop starting and finishing near the Rancho Curujey and a well-known paradise for bird-watchers (there are more than 70 species on show). Sendero Las Delicias (3km) runs from Rancho Curujey to the Cafetal Buenavista and incorporates some fantastic views.
Finally, the Valle del Bayate trail (7km) kicks off near the San Pedro coffee-estate ruins and tracks downriver to the Santa Catalina cafetal. There’s sometimes a possibility of continuing all the way to Soroa; ask when booking.
SWIMMING
It’s hard to envisage more idyllic natural swimming pools than those at the Baños del San Juan (admission with/without lunch CUC$10/4), situated 3km to the south of Hotel Moka down an undulating paved road. The baños (baths) are surrounded by naturally terraced rocks where the clean, bracing waters cascade into a series of pools. Riverside, there are a handful of open-air eating places along with changing rooms, showers and some overnight cabins (below), though the place still manages to retain a sense of rustic isolation.
The Baños del Bayate (admission CUC$4) offers a similar idyll on the Río Bayate near the San Pedro coffee-estate ruins. Alternatively you can knock out a few lengths in the Hotel Moka swimming pool.
CYCLING
A 30km guided cycling tour takes in most of the area’s highlights for CUC$22 (CUC$20 with your own bike). Inquire at Hotel Moka.
CANOPY TOUR
Cuba’s only canopy tour (per person CUC$25) maintains three zip lines that catapult you over Las Terrazas village and the Lago del San Juan like an eagle in flight. The total ‘flying’ distance is 800m. Professional instructors maintain high safety standards.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Moka ( 77-86-00; s/d CUC$75/110; ) Cuba’s only real eco-hotel might not qualify for the four stars it advertises, but who’s arguing? With its trickling fountains, blooming flower garden and resident tree growing through the lobby, Moka would be a catch in any country. The 26 bright, spacious rooms have fridges, satellite TV and bathtubs with a stupendous view (there are blinds for the shy). Equipped with a bar, restaurant, shop, pool and tennis court, the hotel also acts as an information center for the reserve and can organize everything from hiking to fishing.
El Romero ( 57-87-00; 9am-10pm) The most interesting place to grab a bite, this full-blown eco-restaurant (unique in Cuba) specializes in vegetarian fare. El Romero uses home-grown organic vegetables and herbs, solar energy and keeps its own bees. You’ll think you’ve woken up in San Francisco when you browse a menu replete with hummus, bean pancake, pumpkin and onion soup, and extra virgin olive oil.
Patio de María ( 9am-11pm) A couple of doors down is the Patio de María, a small, brightly painted coffee bar, which might just qualify as the best brew in Cuba. The secret comes in the expert confection (María lives upstairs) and the fact that the beans are grown about 20m away from your cup in front of the airy terrace.
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ASK A LOCAL
Las Terrazas is full of local artists and most of them are more than happy for you to pop in and browse around their studios. Lester Campa has a beautiful place overlooking the lake and his work has been exhibited in galleries around the world. Another good spot to hang out in the village is La Plaza where you’ll find a cinema, library and small museum.
Juan Carlos, Las Terrazas
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Casa del Campesino ( 57-87-00; 9am-9pm) Of the ranchón-style restaurants dotted around, this one adjacent to the Hacienda Unión is the best.
You’ll find other ranchóns at Cafetal Buenavista, Baños del Bayate and Baños de San Juan. The Rancho Curujey offers beer and snacks under a small thatched canopy overlooking a small lake.
Through the Moka you can also book five rustic cabins 3km away in Río San Juan (single/double CUC$15/25) or arrange tent camping (own tent/rented tent CUC$5/12). There are also three villas (single/double CUC$60/85) available for rent in the village.
Getting There & Away
At the time of writing two