Cuba - Lonely Planet [200]
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PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA
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Most of the 4520-sq-km Península de Zapata in southern Matanzas is included in Gran Parque Natural Montemar, formerly known as Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata. In 2001, it was declared a Unesco Biosphere Reserve and, despite being one of Cuba’s largest municipalities, it’s also one of its most uninhabited.
To the east of this swampy wilderness lies the elongated Bahía de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs) where propaganda billboards still laud Cuba’s historic victory over the Yanqui imperialists in 1961. There are two worthwhile beaches here, Playa Larga at the bay’s curvaceous head and the more southerly Playa Girón. Both beaches are fronted by slightly moth-eaten resort hotels that are popular with divers. Aside from its reputation as a proverbial banana-skin for US imperialism, the Bay of Pigs also boasts some of the best cave diving in the Caribbean (see boxed text,).
Situated to the northeast of the peninsula lies the sugar-mill town of Australia, along with the cheesy tourist circus of Boca de Guamá, a reconstructed Taíno village.
Transport in the area is limited to a daily Víazul bus. Accommodation outside of the resorts is surprisingly abundant. You can check out excellent casa options in Jagüey Grande, Central Australia, Playa Larga and Playa Girón.
Information
La Finquita ( 91-32-24; 9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat), a snack bar and information center run by Cubanacán just before the turn-off toward Playa Larga from the Autopista, arranges trips into the Zapata Peninsula (Click here) and books rooms at the Villa Guamá.
Etecsa, the post office and Convertible stores are across the Autopista in bustling Jagüey Grande. Insect repellent is absolutely essential on the peninsula and while Cuban repellent is available locally, it’s like wasabi on sushi for the ravenous buggers here.
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CENTRAL AUSTRALIA & AROUND
No, you haven’t just arrived in Alice Springs. About 1.5km south of the Autopista Nacional on the way to Boca de Guamá, is the large Central Australia sugar mill, built in 1904. During the 1961 Bay of Pigs invasion, Fidel Castro had his headquarters in the former office of the sugar mill. Today it’s the Museo de la Comandancia ( 2504; admission CUC$1; 8am-5pm Tue-Sun). This municipal museum contains a few stuffed birds and animals, and a good historical collection starting from prehistory, but surprisingly little about the Bay of Pigs episode itself (the Museo de Playa Girón is far better; Click here). Outside is the wreck of an invading aircraft shot down by Fidel’s troops. The concrete memorials lining the road to the Bahía de Cochinos mark the spots where defenders were killed in 1961.
Approximately 400m on your right after the Central Australia exit is the Finca Fiesta Campesina (admission CUC$1; 9am-6pm), a kind of wildlife park–meets–country fair with labeled examples of Cuba’s typical flora and fauna. The highlights of this strangely engaging place are the coffee (some of the best in Cuba and served with a sweet wedge of sugarcane) and the hilarious if slightly infantile games of guinea-pig roulette overseen with much pizzazz by the gentleman at the gate. It’s the only place in Cuba – outside the cockfighting – where you encounter any form of open gambling.
Sleeping & Eating
Motel Batey Don Pedro (Cubanacán; 91-28-25; Peninsula de Zapata; s/d CUC$25/50) This motel is just south of the turn-off to the Península de Zapata, from Km 142 on the Autopista Nacional at Jagüey Grande, and is really just a glorified campismo. The eight thatched double units are comfortable enough with ceiling fans and crackling TVs. Beware of the frogs in the bathroom. The motel is designed to resemble a peasant settlement, and the on-site restaurant, though friendly and intimate, serves pretty ropey food. A better bet is the adjacent Fiesta Campesino, which sells energy-boosting guarapo (sugarcane juice) and coffee that’s positively divine.
Pío Cuá ( 91-33-43; Carretera de Playa Larga