Cuba - Lonely Planet [211]
Hotels
Cubanacán Boutique La Unión (Cubanacán; Map; 45-10-20; cnr Av 54 & Calle 31; s/d CUC$80/100; ) Barcelona, Naples, Paris? There are echoes of all of them in this plush colonial-style hotel with its European aspirations and splendid Italianate pool fit for a Roman emperor. Tucked away in a small maze of marble pillars, antique furnishings and two tranquil inner courtyards, are 46 well-furnished rooms with balconies either opening to the street or facing in over a colonial patio lined with mosaics. Service is refreshingly efficient and there’s an airy roof terrace that showcases live salsa.
PUNTA GORDA
Casas Particulares
Vista Al Mar (Map; 51-83-78; www.vistaalmarcuba.com; Calle 37 No 210 btwn 2 & 4; r CUC$25; ) It really is a vista al mar (sea view) – in fact, this highly professional casa has even got its own private scoop of beach out back with hammocks. The owners have great local knowledge and a website.
Villa Lagarto – Maylin & Tony (Map; 51-99-66; Calle 35 No 4B btwn Avs 0 & Litoral; r CUC$30-35; ) When your casa comes with a luxuriant Italianate swimming pool, you know you’re onto something. Throw in welcome mojitos, swinging hammocks, king-sized beds, fine food, and a beautiful bayside setting and we’re talking top 10 – in Cuba. If it’s full (highly likely), no sweat; head next door to Villa Las Estancias (Calle 35 No 10), a gorgeous gingerbread beach house with one comfortable room up for grabs.
Angel & Isabel (Map; 51-15-19; Calle 35 No 24 btwn Av 0 & Litoral; r CUC$30-35; ) Two nicely furnished rooms and another of those waterfront Punta Gorda gardens with distant mountain views, Angel & Isabel’s house is well worth the investment.
Hotels
Hostal Palacio Azul (Map; 58-28-28; Calle 37 No 201 btwn Avs 12 & 14; d/tr CUC$60/71; ) This striking blue palace was built in 1921 and reopened as a seven-room (16 person capacity) hotel in 2004. One of the first big buildings to grace Punta Gorda, the hotel’s huge rooms are named after flowers and, after a recent renovation, sparkle with plenty of prerevolutionary character. Other features include an intimate on-site restaurant called El Chelo and an eye-catching rooftop cupola with gorgeous views.
Hotel Jagua (Gran Caribe; Map; 55-10-03; Calle 37 No 1; s/d CUC$74/105; ) It’s not clear what Batista’s brother had in mind when he erected this modern concrete giant on Punta Gorda in the 1950s, though making money was probably the prime motivation. That said the Jagua is actually a jolly good hotel; airy, hospital surgery–clean and surprisingly plush. Any lack of historical credentials is made up for with a whole host of other amenities including a fine restaurant, an inviting pool, large bright rooms, an in-house cabaret show and a fantastic bay-side setting. There’s always at least one tour group staying here.
OUTSIDE TOWN
Hotel Punta La Cueva (Islazul; Map; 51-39-56; s/d CUC$21/28; ) After La Unión and the Jagua, Punta La Cueva is the city’s Achilles heel – a scruffy Islazul place situated 3.5km outside town, east across the bay from Punta Gorda. The 67 rooms are a bit run-down, but cheap. There’s a small beach, but it doesn’t compensate for such a removed location.
Eating
IN TOWN
Polinesio (Map; Calle 29 btwn Calles 54 & 56; snacks CUC$2-4) Qualifies in the ‘OK for a snack’ bracket by right of its fine location under the portals on the eastern side of Parque Martí.
Teatro Café Tomás (Map; Av 56 No 2703 btwn Calles 27 & 29) Cafe, souvenir stall and nightly music venue, this delightful place wedged between the Teatro Tomás Terry and the neoclassical Colegio San Lorenzo is the best place to flop down and observe the morning exercisers in Parque Martí. The flower canopy–covered patio to the side comes alive in the evenings with trova (traditional singing) duos.
Dinos Pizza (Map; 51-12-26; Calle 31 No 5418 btwn Avs 54 & 56; noon-3pm & 6pm-midnight) Locals will point you in the direction of this reliable government chain opposite Cubanacán Boutique La Unión with pizzas starting at CUC$4 (with toppings such