Cuba - Lonely Planet [215]
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RANCHO LUNA
Rancho Luna is a small but picturesque beach resort 18km south of Cienfuegos close to the jaws of the eponymous bay. It has three large hotels, but it’s also possible to stay in private rooms here, one of the few resort areas in Cuba where this is allowed. Protected by a coral reef, the coast is good for snorkeling and close to the hotels you’ll also find what, arguably, is Cuba’s best delfinario (dolphin park). The local post office is in Hotel Rancho Luna. In the small village facing Hotel Club Amigo Faro Luna you’ll find a handful of casas particulares and a beach bar.
Sights & Activities
Like most Cuban resort areas, Rancho Luna has its Delfinario (Map; 54-81-20; adult/child CUC$10/6; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) – actually one of Cuba’s better ones – where you can see dolphins jump through hoops or swim with them for a rip-off CUC$50.
It is possible to organize scuba diving with the dive centers at Hotels Rancho Luna and Club Amigo Faro Luna, which visit 30 sites within a 20-minute boat ride. Caves, sunken ships, profuse marine life and dazzling coral gardens are among the attractions. From November to February harmless whale sharks frequent these waters. For more details check out Cubanacán Náutica ( 54-80-40; Hotel Club Amigo Faro Luna, Carretera de Rancho Luna Km 18; dives CUC$30, open water certification CUC$365) and Whale Shark ( 54-80-12; mpsolcfg@ip.etecsa.cu; Hotel Rancho Luna, Carretera de Rancho Luna Km 16; 1/2 dives from CUC$30/40, night dives CUC$36).
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ASK A LOCAL
Rancho Luna is one of Cuba’s most low-key resorts and a great place to chill out. The hotels here are popular with Canadians who come to study on two-week Spanish immersion courses with www.edutourstocuba.com.
Carmen, Cienfuegos
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Sleeping
Hotel Pasacaballo (Islazul; Map; 54-80-13; Carretera de Rancho Luna Km 22; s/d CUC$34/45; ) A five-story monster sitting on a headland opposite the Castillo de Jagua, this Islazul offering is as architecturally ugly as the rest of the scenery is beautiful. Shoe-stringers only!
Hotel Club Amigo Faro Luna (Cubanacán; Map; 54-80-30; Carretera de Rancho Luna Km 18; s/d all-inclusive CUC$100; ) This intimate resort on a bluff overlooking the sea is the best on the beach. Not all rooms are the same and the newer units in the 200 and 300 blocks have bathtubs. The swimming pool (with separate children’s unit) is sweet and the food buffet is surprisingly good. A long beach is only a few minutes’ walk away.
Hotel Rancho Luna (Cubanaćan; Map; 54-81-31; Carretera de Rancho Luna Km 17.5; s/d all-inclusive CUC$100; ) This beachfront resort – now linked to the Faro Luna in a Cubanacán complejo (complex) – is a favorite among Canadian package tourists, who dig the all-inclusive deal, private beach and big pool. A horse and buggy can be hired for rides along the coast.
Recommended casas particulares in Rancho Luna:
‘Villa Sol’ – Diana Gavio Caso ( 0152-27-24-48; Carretera Faro Luna; r CUC$20-30) On the approach road to Hotel Faro Luna. Beautiful house overlooking the ocean; bougainvillea in the garden.
Casa de Julio ( 51-57-44; Carretera de Faro Luna; r CUC$25) Last (blue) house on left before Hotel Faro Luna. Nice setting.
Eating
Aside from the hotels, your dining options are limited. Try the beach snack bar or one of the private houses that rent rooms. The Servi-Cupet gas station 5km north of town serves microwave pizza 24 hours a day.
Getting There & Away
Theoretically, there are local buses from Cienfuegos seven times a day. Equally sporadic is the Jagua ferry to Cienfuegos, which calls at the dock directly below Hotel Pasacaballo several times daily. More reliable is a taxi; a one-way fare to Cienfuegos should cost around CUC$8 to CUC$10 – bargain hard.
An even better way to get here is zipping along from Cienfuegos on a rented moped.
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CASTILLO DE JAGUA
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