Cuba - Lonely Planet [222]
The city’s oldest and most interesting church, the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Carolina Rodríguez), four blocks north of Parque Vidal, was built in 1748, with a tower added in 1846. During the First War of Independence it was used as a jail for Cuban patriots. A modern cylindrical monument facing the church commemorates the spot where Santa Clara was founded in 1689 by 13 refugee families from Remedios.
LA CASA DE LA CIUDAD
The pulse of the city’s progressive cultural life is at La Casa de la Ciudad (cnr Independencia & JB Zayas; admission CUC$1; 8am-5pm), northwest of Parque Vidal. If you want to see another side to Santa Clara aside from the obligatory Che memorabilia, get chatting to the young artists here. The historic building hosts art expositions (including an original Wilfredo Lam sketch), Noches del Danzón and a film museum; but the real buzz of this place is hanging out with the local culture vultures and finding out what makes this most unprepossessing of Cuban cities tick.
Courses
Santa Clara boasts Cuba’s second most prestigious university, Universidad Central Marta Abreu de las Villas ( 28-14-10; www.uclv.edu.cu; Carretera de Camajuaní Km 5.5). Non-Cubans have, on occasion, been able to study Spanish here. Check the website for current details.
La Casa de la Ciudad (cnr Independencia & JB Zayas) is another good learning center. You might be able to pick up dancing and percussion lessons here if you probe hard.
Sleeping
IN TOWN
Casas Particulares
Hostal Florida Center ( 20-81-61; Maestra Nicolasa Este No 56 btwn Colón & Maceo; r CUC$20-25; ) The Florida is a national treasure. It boasts more antiques than the local decorative arts museum and serves better food than most Havana paladares (in a jaw-dropping central patio replete with plants). Your main dilemma is which room to choose: the grandiose colonial suite, or the gloriously retro art-deco digs?
Héctor Martínez ( 21-74-63; R Pardo No 8 btwn Maceo & Parque Vidal; r CUC$20-25; ) Recline on a rocker on the patio counting the innumerable plants, ferns and blooming flowers. The two huge rooms have two beds (one double), fridge, private bath and a writing/domino-playing table. A quiet haven just half a block from Parque Vidal.
Casa de Mercy ( 21-69-41; Eduardo Machado No 4 btwn Cuba & Colón; r CUC$20-25; ) There are two rooms with private bath available in this beautiful family house with a terrace, a dining room, a multilingual library and a tempting cocktail menu. English, French and Italian are spoken.
Hostal Alba ( 29-41-08; Eduardo Machado No 7 btwn Cuba & Colón; r CUC$20-25; ) Another architectural stunner with lovely antique beds, original tilework and a patio, serving amazing food and situated just one block from the main square.
Isidoro & Marta ( 20-38-13; Maestra Nicolasa No 74 btwn Colón & Maceo; r CUC$20-25; ) This couple’s more modern house is kept muy limpia (very clean). A long thin patio leads to two fine bedrooms with super-modern bathrooms. Breakfast and dinner is served.
Vivian & José Rivero ( 20-37-81; Maceo No 64 btwn Martí & Independencia; r CUC$20; ) Two rooms with TV, fridge and private bath are available in this lovely colonial house dating from 1908. The unassuming front facade hides a beautiful quiet terrace overlooking a colorful inner garden.
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DOWNTIME IN PARQUE VIDAL
The old man in the starched-white guayabera shirt inhales deeply on his well-chewed cigar and lazily contemplates the weekend theater of Parque Vidal. It’s Saturday evening and the whole town