Cuba - Lonely Planet [227]
But die-hard locals agree to differ. While acknowledging that Remedios wasn’t legally registered as a city until as late as 1550, they maintain that the settlement was founded 37 years earlier in 1513 (making it Cuba’s third-oldest, after Baracoa and Bayamo). The savvy Figueroa – so the story goes – founded Remedios (then known as Santa Cruz de la Sabana de Vasco Porcallo) with money gained from a sizable land grant that he had inherited through his marriage to the local cacique’s daughter. Slyly, he kept his new village a secret from the Spanish crown in order to avoid hefty tax payments.
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Sights
Remedios is the only city in Cuba with two churches in its main square, Plaza Martí. The Parroquia de San Juan Bautista de Remedios (Camilo Cienfuegos No 20; 9am-11am Mon-Sat) is one of the island’s finest ecclesial buildings. Though a church was founded here in 1545, this building dates from the late 18th century; the campanile was erected between 1848 and 1858 and its famous gilded high altar and mahogany ceiling are thanks to a restoration project (1944–46) financed by millionaire philanthropist Eutimio Falla Bonet. The pregnant Inmaculada Concepción on the first side altar to the left of the entrance is said to be the only one of its kind in Cuba. If the front doors are closed, go around to the rear or attend 7:30pm mass.
Also on Parque Martí is the 18th-century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Buen Viaje (Alejandro del Río No 66), still awaiting a long-overdue restoration.
Between these churches is the Museo de Música Alejandro García Caturla (Parque Martí No 5; admission CUC$1; 9am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Thu, 7-11pm Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat), commemorating García Caturla, a Cuban composer and musician who lived here from 1920 until his murder in 1940. Look for occasional impromptu concerts.
Visiting the Museo de las Parrandas Remedianas (Máximo Gómez No 71; admission CUC$1; 9am-6pm), two blocks off Parque Martí, is probably a poor substitute for partying here on December 24, but what the hell? The downstairs photo gallery usually recaps the previous year’s shenanigans, while the upstairs rooms outline the history of this tradition, including scale models of floats and detailed depictions of how the fireworks are made. Another room is jammed with feathers, headdresses and tassels from celebrations past.
You can muse for a few minutes at the friendly Galería del Arte Carlos Enríquez (Parque Martí No 2; admission free; 9am-noon & 1-5pm), also in the main park. A gifted painter hailing from the small Villa Clara town of Zulueta, Enríquez called his studio ‘Hurón Azul,’ a name later adopted by Uneac (Union of Cuban Writers and Artists).
Sleeping
CASAS PARTICULARES
‘Villa Colonial’ – Frank & Arelys ( 39-62-74; felicialr@uclv.edu.cu; Maceo No 43 cnr Av General Carrillo; r CUC$20-25; ) A truly elegant villa with high ceilings and huge wrought-iron window guards, this place has been restored with a meticulous eye for history. For as little as CUC$20 you get your own private entrance and lobby, an antique-stuffed sitting room, a gorgeous patio and spacious bedrooms with modern baths. The young hosts are charming and passionate about their town and its history.
La China & Richard ( 39-66-49; Maceo No 68 btwn Fe del Valle & Cupertino Garcia; r CUC$20-25; ) This friendly young couple rent two rooms with a terrace and decent meals. Richard can give you the lowdown on local history.
La Paloma ( 39-54-90; Balmaseda No 4 btwn Capablanca & Máximo Gómez; r CUC$20-25; ) Another grand Remedios casa with tilework and furnishings that would be worth zillions anywhere else, La Paloma dates from 1875 and is right on the main square. The two rooms have massive shower units, art-deco beds, and doors big enough to ride a horse through.
HOTELS
Hotel Mascotte (Cubanacán; 39-51-44; Parque Martí; r CUC$49) Remedios makes up for its lack of tourist hotels by the quality