Cuba - Lonely Planet [230]
Juan, Remedios
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Sights & Activities
Most water-based activities can be arranged at Marina Gaviota ( 35-00-13), next to Villa Las Brujas. Highlights include a one-hour catamaran excursion with snorkeling (CUC$15), a half-day catamaran cruise (CUC$36), a sunset cruise (CUC$49), deep-sea fishing (CUC$260 for four people) and a two-hour Aqua bike excursion (CUC$60). Diving to one of 24 off-shore sites is offered for an expensive CUC$40 per immersion. Most water activities are cancelled if there is a cold weather front.
One of the area’s oldest curiosities is the wreck of the San Pascual, a San Diego tanker built in 1920 that got wrecked in 1933 on the opposite side of nearby Cayo Francés. Later the ship was used to store molasses, and later still it was opened up as a rather surreal hotel-restaurant (it closed in 2004). The journey out to see the ship is included in the snorkeling excursions and sunset cruises.
Sleeping
There are five hotels here. The following three run the gamut of price ranges.
Villa Las Brujas (Gaviota; 35-01-99; s/d CUC$80/85; ) Wild and still relatively untamed atop a small headland that is crowned by a statue of a bruja (witch), Villa Las Brujas has the air of a tropical Wuthering Heights when a cold front blows in. It all adds to the unique atmosphere of this comfortable but affordable small resort that rises subtly among the mangroves on one of Cuba’s prettiest northern keys. The 24 spacious cabañas equipped with coffee machines, cable TV and massive beds have killer views, while the friendly Farallón restaurant overlooks a magnificent scoop of private beach (part of paradisiacal Playa Las Salinas). The nearest resort to the mainland, Villa Las Brujas lies adjacent to the marina and 3km from the airport.
Meliá Las Dunas ( 35-01-00; s/d CUC$122/193; ) The mind-boggling 925-room Meliá is one of Cuba’s newest and biggest resorts and opened to rave reviews in 2007. The size of an English village, Meliá has golf carts to get around the extensive grounds, although, after tucking into the generous all-you-can-eat buffet, you might welcome the walk. Encased in a wonderful setting, Las Dunas is a Caribbean beach paradise personified but, unless you book for a guided day excursion (or drive/cycle 45km to the mainland), the most you’ll see of everyday Cuba is on the way to and from the airport.
Hotel Occidental Royal Hideaway Ensenachos (s/d CUC$232/301; ) If you’re an all-inclusive type, you’ll love this top-end paradise which is on a par with some of the five-star resorts in Puerto Rico and Cancún (with a Canadian rather than an American demographic). Refined and tranquil with Alhambra-esque fountains and attractive natural foliage, guests here are accommodated in pretty 20-unit blocks, each with their own private concierge. Among the all-inclusive luxuries are king-sized beds, bathrobes, water toys, tennis coaching, myriad restaurants, and golf carts to drive you around. But the highlight is the two absolutely gorgeous private beaches, Ensenachos and Mégano.
Eating
For nonhotel guests the best bet for a decent meal is in the Farallón restaurant, perched like a bird’s nest overlooking blissful Las Salinas beach. Access is via the Gaviota Villa Las Brujas. Lunch with use of beach, bathrooms and parking costs CUC$20. Otherwise your only food/drink option is at the airport cafetería (not much beyond biscuits and coffee) or an expensive all-inclusive day pass to the Hotel Occidental or the Meliá Las Dunas.
Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport out here. Day-trippers can zoom in from Caibarién (56km), Remedios (65km) or Santa Clara (110km) by rental car or taxi. A taxi from Remedios should cost CUC$30 to CUC$35 one way to Villa Las Brujas. Las Brujas airport ( 35-00-09) has mainly charter flights to Havana. There’s a Servicentro gas station opposite. The causeway is accessed from Caibarién and