Cuba - Lonely Planet [247]
Sleeping
CASAS PARTICULARES
The small village of La Boca, a few clicks up the coast from Ancón, has about a dozen lovely casas.
‘Villa Río Mar’ – Nestor Manresa ( 99-31-08; San José No 65, La Boca; r CUC$20-25; ) There are further treats at Río Mar, where two rooms with shared bath give out onto a lovely tiled verandah. If it’s full, there’s more next door.
‘Villa Sonia’ – Sonia Santos Barrera ( 99-29-23; Av del Mar No 11, La Boca; r CUC$25-30; ) If you need an excuse to stay in La Boca, here it is. A beautiful house with a wraparound porch all to yourself, complete with polished-wood dining area, private kitchen, hammocks, rocking chairs and a thatched gazebo. Situated right opposite the (rocky) beach.
HOTELS
Ancón’s three hotels offer all-inclusive rates.
Hotel Club Amigo Costasur (Cubanacán; 99-61-74; s/d all-inclusive CUC$75/94; ) Playa Ancón’s oldest and humblest resort, this hotel is at the base of the peninsula, 9km from Casilda. For about CUC$10 more, you can upgrade to a superior room, which gives you better location and views (but not decor unfortunately). There are also 20 rooms in duplex bungalows that are better still. From here you can scuba dive and ride horses. The hotel faces a rocky shore, but a white, sandy beach is just to the right. Swimming is difficult on the shallow reef. This place is popular with Canadian package tourists.
Hotel Club Amigo Ancón (Cubanacán; 99-61-23, 99-61-27; s/d all-inclusive CUC$88/100; ) Built during Cuba’s 30-year flirtation with Soviet architectonics, the Ancón wouldn’t win any beauty contests. Indeed, this steamship-shaped seven-story concrete pile looks more than a little incongruous next to the natural beauty of Ancón beach. But, if it’s location you’re after, coupled with close proximity to the historic delights of Trinidad, the deal could cut ice. Even better, you’re just a short walk from the marina where you can fish, learn to scuba dive or enjoy a sunset cruise. Additionally, nonguests can use the facilities, which is exceptional for a resort.
Brisas Trinidad del Mar (Cubanacán; 99-65-00; s/d all-inclusive CUC$150/190; ) A kitschy attempt to recreate Trinidad in an all-inclusive resort environment, Brisas wins kudos for rejecting the monolithic architecture of Club Amigo Ancón in favor of low-rise colonial-style villas. But after barely half a decade in operation the quality of this place has begun to suffer from poor maintenance and decidedly iffy service. Though the swath of beach is stunning and the massage, sauna, gym and tennis courts handy for the sports-minded, you might be better off saving a few dollars and opting for one of the Club Amigos.
Eating & Drinking
Grill Caribe ( 99-62-41; 24hr) Other than the hotel restaurants, there’s this place on a quiet beach 2km north of Club Amigo Costasur. It specializes in seafood, such as fish and shrimp or lobster, and charges a pretty price. Strict vegetarians will be disappointed here. It’s a great sunset spot.
Bar Las Caletas, at the junction of the road to Casilda, is a local drinking place.
Getting There & Away
Bike, bus, coco-taxi or taxi – take your pick. Click here for details.
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VALLE DE LOS INGENIOS
Trinidad’s immense wealth was garnered not in the town itself, but in a verdant valley situated 8km to the east. The Valle de los Ingenios (or Valle de San Luis) still contains the ruins of dozens of 19th-century sugar mills, including warehouses, milling machinery, slave quarters, manor houses and a fully functioning steam train. Most of the mills were destroyed during the two Wars of Independence when the focus of sugar-growing in Cuba shifted west to Matanzas. Though some sugar is still grown here, the valley is