Cuba - Lonely Planet [269]
Baroque becomes Gothic in rectangular Parque Martí, a few blocks east of Parque Ignacio Agramonte, where the triple-spired Iglesia de Nuestra Corazón de Sagrado Jesús (cnr República & Luaces) dazzles with its ornate stained glass, iron work and updated interpretation of Europe’s favorite medieval architectural style (a rarity in Cuba).
The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Plaza del Carmen), a twin-towered baroque beauty dating from 1825, is another church that shares digs with a former convent. The Monasterio de las Ursalinas is a sturdy arched colonial building with a pretty cloistered courtyard that once provided shelter for victims of the furious 1932 hurricane. Today it is the offices of the City Historian.
The Iglesia de San Cristo del Buen Viaje (Plaza del Cristo), next door from the necropolis and overlooking a quiet square, is probably the least visited of Camagüey’s ecclesial sextet, but it is worth a peek if you’re visiting the graveyard. An original chapel was raised here in 1723, but the current structure is of mainly 19th-century vintage.
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Opposite Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced, on the corner of Independencia, is the Museo Casa Natal de Ignacio Agramonte ( 29-71-16; Av Agramonte No 459; admission CUC$2; 10am-5:45pm Tue-Thu, 8am-noon Sun), the birthplace of the independence hero Ignacio Agramonte (1841–73), the cattle rancher who led the revolt against Spain in this area in 1868. In July 1869 rebel forces under Agramonte bombarded Camagüey, and four years later he was killed in action (aged only 32) fighting bravely against the Spanish. Nicknamed ‘El Mayor’ (the Major), you can hear Silvio Rodríguez’ anthem to this hero on his disc Días y Flores. The house – an elegant colonial building in its own right – tells the oft-overlooked role of Camagüey and Agramonte in the First War of Independence.
Camagüey’s other hero, Dr Carlos J Finlay, was more concerned with saving lives than taking them. His small birth-house at Casa Finlay ( 29-67-45; Cristo btwn Cisneros & Lugareño; 10am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sat) documents his life and scientific feats, most notably his medical breakthrough that discovered how mosquitoes transmit yellow fever. There’s a splendid indoor patio and cafetería.
Nearby, the modest Casa Natal Nicolás Guillén (Hermanos Agüero No 58; admission free; 8:30am-4:30pm) gives visitors a small insight into Cuba’s late national poet and his books, and today doubles up as the Instituto Superior de Arte, where local students come to study music.
Across the bridge over the Río Hatibonico is the Casino Campestre, one of Cuba’s largest urban parks with lots of shaded benches, a baseball stadium, concerts and activities. Get one of the ubiquitous bici-taxis to pedal you around.
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ASK A LOCAL
In 1998 Pope John Paul II chose Camagüey as the site of one of his four Cuban Masses. Now, 10 years later, we have been honored with Cuba’s first saint, Camagüeyan friar José Olallo, a member of the Order of Saint John who aided the wounded of both sides in the 1868–78 War of Independence.
Ramiro, Camagüey
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Festivals & Events
The Jornadas de la Cultura Camagüeyana festival, commemorating the founding of the city, takes place during the first two weeks of February. The annual carnival, known as the San Juan Camagüeyano, is from June 24 to 29 and includes dancers, floats and African roots music.
Sleeping
IN TOWN
Casas Particulares
‘Los Vitrales’ – Emma Barreto & Rafael Requejo ( 29-58-66; Avellaneda No 3 btwn General Gómez & Martí; r CUC$20-25; ) This painstakingly restored colonial house was once a convent and sports broad arches, high ceilings and dozens of antiques. Two rooms are arranged around a shady patio embellished with 50 different types of plants and a fantastic tile mural. Owner Rafael is an architect and it shows.
Alba Ferraz ( 28-30-30; misleydis2000@yahoo.com; Ramón Guerrero No 106 btwn San Ramón & Oscar Primelles; r CUC$20-25; ) Two rooms sharing a bath