Cuba - Lonely Planet [271]
Restaurante La Isabella (cnr Av Agramonte & Independencia; 11am-4pm & 6:30-10pm) Cool, cinematic and perennially crowded, Camagüey’s newest restaurant was opened during a visit by delegates from Gibara’s Festival Internacional del Cine Pobre in April 2008. Mixing Italian food with a maverick movie-themed decor (each of the 32 director-style seats is emblaz-oned with the name of a different Cuban ‘star’), the restaurant occupies the site of Camagüey’s first ever cinema and is named after local actress Isabella Santos. Hungry gastronomes won’t be disappointed by the ample plates of pizza, lasagne and fettuccine.
Bodegón Don Cayetano ( 26-19-61; República No 79) Of Camagüey’s handful of Spanish-style taverns, this is undoubtedly the best – and the only one that serves food. Nestled in the shadow of the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, with tables spilling into the adjacent alley, the food is primarily Spanish with quality tapas such as tortilla, chorizo and garbanzos. For something more substantial try the chef’s special: beef steak in red wine and mushroom sauce (CUC$5.50).
Restaurante de los Tres Reyes (Plaza San Juan de Dios No 18; meals CUCS$7; 10am-10pm) Was that chicken really roasted – or was it fried? Such are the questions that beset you in this handsome state-run place set in beautiful colonial digs on Plaza San Juan de Dios. You ruminate over the answer in one the giant iron-grilled windows out front or enjoy greater privacy on a plant-bedecked patio behind. The equally romantic Campana de Toledo is next door.
Don Ronquillo (cnr Av Agramonte & República) A rather inviting restaurant hidden in the pretty Galería El Colonial with polished wine glasses and OK comida criolla (Creole food). Stick around for the cabaret (opposite).
Paladar El Cardenal (Martí No 309; dishes CUC$7-8; 11am-11pm) This old Camagüey standby is popular for a reason: seriously good comida criolla and lots of it. Try the pork steak, salad, tostones (fried plantains) and congrí (rice flecked with beans).
Paladar El Califa (Raúl Lamar No 49a btwn Cisneros & Lugareño; meals CUC$8; noon-midnight) Boy, the food here is fantastic – and such big portions. Hard to pick out in old-fashioned Calle Raúl Lamar, El Califa has been around for donkey’s years and is rightly renowned for its huge plates of uruguayano (a type of pork fillet) and cordon bleu.
El Ovejito ( 29-25-24; Hermanos Agüero btwn Honda & Carmen; noon-10pm Wed-Mon) No, the name isn’t a joke, state-run El Ovejito does actually serve ‘little sheep’ (as the name translates). Even better, it’s situated on sublime Plaza del Carmen with nary a hustler to bother you. Try the lamb chops or the lamb fricassee.
Gran Hotel (Maceo No 67 btwn Av Agramonte & General Gómez; dinner buffet CUC$12) The 5th-floor restaurant here has superb city views and a rather nice buffet; get here early and watch the sun set over the church towers.
CAFETERíAS
Gran Hotel snack bar (Maceo No 67 btwn Av Agramonte & General Gómez; 9am-11pm) This generally lively snack bar accessible off Maceo has coffee, sandwiches, chicken and ice cream. The hamburgers (when available) are good and the atmosphere is 1950s retro.
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CAMAGÜEY GETS A UNESCO LISTING
In July 2008 54 hectares of Camagüey’s central area became Cuba’s ninth Unesco World Heritage Site, and its fourth listed casco histórico (historic city center), after Habana Vieja, Trinidad and Cienfuegos.
For Unesco’s international observers, Camagüey’s historic value lies in its irregular street design (a layout that contrasts sharply with the standard Spanish colonial grid) and the remarkable architectural homogeneity it has retained in the five centuries since its founding in 1515.
Aside from the narrow twisting streets and shadowy back alleys, features to look