Cuba - Lonely Planet [301]
The payback began during the revolutionary war when Fidel’s rebel army famously burned the fields of his late father’s Birán estate in a portentous taste of things to come.
On taking power in 1959, Castro nationalized all United Fruit land and property in Cuba and sent its rich bosses scampering back to the US. Unable to gain financial compensation from the Cuban government, the company attempted to get even two years later by lending two ships from its ‘Great White Fleet’ (the largest private navy in the world) to Cuban mercenaries taking part in the abortive Bay of Pigs landings (see boxed text,). But the invasion was unsuccessful.
United Fruit’s demise was exacerbated in 1975 when CEO Eli Black spectacularly committed suicide by jumping from the 44th floor of New York’s PanAm building after it was alleged he had bribed the Honduran president US$1.2 million to pull out of a banana cartel hostile to UF’s interests.
The company rebranded in 1984 and was reincarnated as Chiquita Brands. Meanwhile, in Cuba, the legacy of United Fruit can still be seen in the peeling colonial houses of Banes and – more ironically – at the former Castro farm in Birán.
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Banes is better known for the Museo Indocubano Bani ( 80-24-87; General Marrero No 305; admission with/without guide CUC$2/1; 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 8am-noon & 7-9pm Sun). The museum’s small but rich collection of Indian artifacts is one of the best on the island. Don’t miss the tiny golden fertility idol unearthed near Banes (one of only 20 gold artifacts ever found in Cuba).
Railway enthusiasts shouldn’t miss steam locomotive 964 (El Panchito; Calle Tráfico), built at the HK Porter Locomotive Works in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, in 1888, now on display 400m east of the bus station. Playa de Morales, 13km east of Banes along the paved continuation of Tráfico, is a fishing village where you can while away an afternoon dining with locals and watching the men mend their nets. A few kilometers to the north is the even quieter Playa Puerto Rico.
Sleeping
IN TOWN
There are no hotels in the town proper, but Banes has some good private rooms.
Sergio Aguilera ( 80-24-12; Iglesias No 4089, Reparto Nicaragua; r CUC$20; ) A lovely detached villa with a great family atmosphere and tasty meals served.
Casa Evelin Feria ( 80-31-50; Bruno Meriño No 3401A btwn Delfin Pupo & JMH, Reparto Cárdenas; r CUC$20-25; ) A town center location, bright modern baths and an attentive hostess/cook make any stay in Evelin’s house a pleasure.
OUTSIDE TOWN
Campismo Puerto Rico Libre (Cubamar; per person CUC$5) A mainly Cuban enclave near deserted Playa de Morales 13km north from Banes, the Puerto Rico has basic cabins that line the rocky shore. There’s a restaurant, and people in the nearby fishing villages will happily cook seafood meals for you. Ask about the caves (about 1km from the campismo), and bring insect repellent. It’s best to enquire with Cubamar (Click here) before arriving.
Motel Brisas de Banes (Map; cabins CUC$30) This place, on a hill overlooking a reservoir 10km northwest of Banes off the road to Guardalavaca, has eight cabins, each sleeping two people. There are nice views, and it’s a pleasant out-of-the-way place for a beer.
Eating & Drinking
Coctelera (General Marrero No 327A) Several peso bars dotted around town are jumping with atmosphere and cheap hooch, including this one, as well as the superpopular Doña Yulla next door.
Restaurant El Latino (General Marrero No 710; 11am-11pm) A top Banes choice is this Palmares place with all the usual Creole dishes delivered with a little extra flair and charm. Service is good and the accompanying musicians unusually talented and discreet.
La Vicaria ( 24hr) Across the street from El Latino is yet another reliable La Vicaria, with pasta, burgers and Gordon Bleu (chicken stuffed with ham and cheese), plus eggs and coffee for breakfast (everything