Cuba - Lonely Planet [310]
PALADARES
Paladar Sagitario (Donato Marmol No 107 btwn Maceo & Vicente Aguilera; meals CUC$7-9; noon-midnight) The Sagitario’s been in the game for 13 years, knocking out such delicacies as chicken cordon bleu and pork chops topped with cheese on an attractive back patio with occasional musical accompaniment.
Paladar El Polinesio ( 42-24-49; Parada No 125 btwn Pío Rosado & Cisnero) The cheaper and cozier Polinesio has meals served upstairs in what used to be the family dining room.
RESTAURANTS
Tropi Crema ( 42-41-69; 9am-9:45pm) In the absence of a Coppelia, the Tropi, on the southwest corner of Parque Céspedes, does its best – in pesos, of course.
Restaurante Vegetariano (General García No 173; 7-9am, noon-2:30pm & 6-9pm; ) Manage your expectations before you check out this peso place. This is Cuba where vegetarianismo is still in its infancy. Don’t expect nut roast, but you should be able to order something other than the ubiquitous omelette.
La Sevillana ( 42-14-95; General García btwn General Lora & Perucho Figueredo; noon-2pm & 6-10:30pm) Cuban chefs have a go at Spanish cuisine – paella and garbanzos (chickpeas). This is a new kind of peso restaurant, with a dress code (no shorts), a doorman in a suit, and a reservations policy. It’s OK, if you don’t mind the formalities.
La Bodega ( 42-79-11; Plaza del Himno Nacional No 34; cover after 9pm CUC$3; 11am-1am) The best of both worlds. The front door opens out onto Bayamo’s main square; the rear terrace overlooks Río Bayamo and is fringed by a bucolic backdrop that will leave you wondering if you’ve been transported to an isolated country villa. La Bodega is Bayamo’s best restaurant and not only for its urban-rural juxtapositions. Try the beef and taste the coffee, or relax on the open terrace before the traveling troubadours arrive at 9pm.
GROCERIES
Mercado agropecuario (Línea) The vegetable market is in front of the train station. There are many peso food stalls along here also.
Mercado Cabalgata (General García No 65; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) This store on the main pedestrian street sells basic groceries.
Drinking
Bar La Esquina ( 42-17-31; cnr Donato Marmol & Maceo; 11am-1am) International cocktails are served in this tiny corner bar replete with plenty of local atmosphere.
Entertainment
Cine Céspedes ( 42-42-67; admission CUC$2) This cinema is on the western side of Parque Céspedes, next to the post office. It offers everything from Gutiérrez Alea to the latest Hollywood blockbuster.
Centro Cultural Los Beatles (42-17-99; Zenea btwn Figueredo & Saco; admission 10 pesos; 6am-midnight) Just as the West fell for the exoticism of the Buena Vista Social Club, the Cubans fell for the downright brilliance of the Fab Four. Guarded by life-size statues of John, Paul, George and Ringo, this quirky place hosts Beatles tribute bands (in Spanish) every weekend. Unmissable!
Uneac (Céspedes No 158; admission free; 4pm) You can catch heartfelt boleros on the flowery patio here in the former home of disgraced first president Tomás Estrada Palma, who is largely blamed for handing Guantánamo to the Yanquis.
Sala Teatro José Joaquín Palma ( 42-44-23; Céspedes No 164) In a stylish old church, this venue presents theater on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, while the Teatro Guiñol, also here, hosts children’s theater on Saturday and Sunday mornings.
Cabaret Bayamo ( 42-51-11; Carretera Central Km 2; 9pm Fri-Sun) Bayamo’s glittery nightclub/cabaret opposite the Hotel Sierra Maestra draws out the locals on weekends in their equally glittery attire.
Casa de la Trova La Bayamesa (cnr Maceo & Martí; admission CUC$1; 9pm) One of Cuba’s best in a lovely colonial building; closed Mondays.
Casa de la Cultura ( 42-59-17; General García No 15) Wide-ranging cultural events, including art expos, on the east side of Parque Céspedes.
Estadio Mártires de Barbados (Av Granma) From October to April, there are baseball games at this stadium, approximately 1km northeast of the Hotel Sierra Maestra.
Shopping
ARTex (General García No 7) The usual mix of Che Guevara T-shirts and