Cuba - Lonely Planet [316]
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ASK A LOCAL
Manzanillo is a tranquil city. There are no jineteros (tourist touts) here. By contrast, the people are more like country folk. Although we don’t get many tourists, those that do come are impressed by the glorieta (opposite). It’s unique in the world. Once upon a time, there was a similar one in Spain, but it no longer exists.
Guillermo, Manzanillo
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Sleeping
Manzanillo – thank heavens – has a smattering of private rooms, as there’s not much happening on the hotel scene.
CASAS PARTICULARES
Adrián & Tonia ( 57-30-28; Mártires de Vietnam No 49; r CUC$20-25; ) This attractive casa, full of clever workmanship (double-glazed windows) and weeping plants, would stand out in any city, let alone Manzanillo. The position, on the terra-cotta staircase that leads to the Celia Sánchez monument, obviously helps. But youthful Adrián and Tonia have gone beyond the call of duty with a vista-laden terrace, Jacuzzi-sized cool-off pool and dinner provided in a paladar (privately owned restaurant) next door.
Villa Luisa ( 57-27-38; Rabena No 172 btwn Maceo & Masó; r CUC$20-25; ) Two newly renovated rooms in a clean, open house with coco palms and a small pool in the garden.
HOTELS
Hotel Guacanayabo (Islazul; 57-40-12; Circunvalación Camilo Cienfuegos; s/d low season CUC$17/22, high season CUC$18/24; ) The cheapest and most austere of Islazul’s Cuban hotels, the Guacanayabo looks like a tropical reincarnation of a Gulag camp. The fake flamingos in the lobby fail to lighten the mood, although the affable staff tries its best. Rooms are badly lit, if relatively clean, and the restaurant’s awaiting a visit from Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares.
Eating & Drinking
Manzanillo is known for its fish, though strangely not a lot of the fresh seafood seems to find its way onto the plates in the restaurants. In common with many untouristed Cuban cities, the culinary scene here is grim. If in doubt, eat in your casa particular, or drop in on the weekend Sábado en la Calle (see below) where the locals cook up traditional whole roast pig.
Restaurante Licetera ( 57-52-42; Av Masó btwn Calles 9 & 10; noon-9:45pm) A decent indoor-outdoor place down near the seafront that specializes in local fish served with the head and bones on but still rather tasty. Prices are in moneda nacional (Cuban pesos).
Restaurante Yang Tsé ( 57-30-57; Merchán btwn Masó & Saco; 7am-10pm) Comida China is served for moneda nacional in this centrally located place with delusions of grandeur (there’s a dress code!). It overlooks Parque Céspedes and gets good reports from locals.
Cafetería La Fuente ( 57-82-54; cnr Avs Jesús Menéndez & Masó; 8am-midnight) The Cubans are as stalwart about their ice cream as the British are about their cups of tea. Come what may, the scooper’s always in the tub. Join the line here to sweeten up your views of surrounding Parque Céspedes.
Cafetería Piropo Kikiri ( 57-78-13; Martí btwn Maceo & Saco; 10am-10pm) This place has everything from ice-cream sandwiches to sundaes, available for Convertibles.
Dinos Pizza La Glorieta ( 57-34-57; Merchán No 221 btwn Maceo & Masó; 8am-midnight) This small Cuba pizza chain could come in handy here. Perched on the main square, it’s run by the government restaurant group, Palmares, and accepts Convertibles.
Entertainment
As in most Cuban cities, Manzanillo’s best ‘gig’ takes place on Saturday evenings in the famed Sábado en la Calle, a riot of piping organs, roasted pigs, throat-burning rum and, of course, dancing locals. Don’t miss it!
Teatro Manzanillo (Villuendas btwn Maceo & Saco; admission 5 pesos; shows 8pm Fri-Sun) Touring companies such as the Ballet de Camagüey