Cuba - Lonely Planet [321]
Getting There & Around
Public transport in and out of Pilón is dire in both directions. The only regular bus is the Astro to Santiago de Cuba via Bayamo on alternate days – but this is no longer available to non-Cubans. Otherwise it’s car, long-distance bike, or winging it with the amarillos (for tips, see boxed text,).
The Servi-Cupet gas station is by the highway at the entrance to Pilón and sells snacks and drinks. Drivers should be sure to fill up here; the next gas station is in Santiago de Cuba nearly 200km away.
Return to beginning of chapter
MAREA DEL PORTILLO
There’s something infectious about Marea del Portillo, a tiny south-coast village bordered by two low-key all-inclusive resorts. Wedged into a narrow strip of dry land between the glistening Caribbean and the cascading Sierra Maestra, it occupies a spot of great natural beauty – and great history.
The problem for independent travelers is getting here. There is no regular public transport, which means that you may, for the first time, have to go local and travel with the amarillos. Another issue for beach lovers is the sand, which is of a light gray color and may disappoint those more attuned to the brilliant whites of Cayo Coco.
The resorts themselves are affordable and well maintained places but they are isolated; the nearest town of any size is lackluster Manzanillo 100km to the north. Real rustic Cuba, however, is a hop, skip and a jump outside the hotel gates.
Activities
There’s plenty to do here, despite the area’s apparent isolation. Both hotels operate horseback riding for CUC$5 per hour (usually to El Salto; see boxed text, below) or a horse-and-carriage sojourn along the deserted coast road for CUC$4. A jeep tour to Las Jaguas waterfall is CUC$49 and trips to Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma start at about the same price. Trips can be booked at Cubanacán desks in either hotel.
The Marlin Dive Center ( 59-70-34), adjacent to Hotel Marea del Portillo, offers scuba diving for a giveaway CUC$25/49 per one/two immersions. A more exciting dive to the Cristóbal Colón wreck (sunk in the 1898 Spanish-Cuban-American War) costs CUC$70 for two immersions. Deep-sea fishing starts at CUC$200 for a boat (four anglers) plus crew and gear.
Other water excursions include a seafari (with snorkeling) for CUC$35, a sunset cruise for CUC$15 and a trip to uninhabited Cayo Blanco for CUC$25.
* * *
GO FURTHER INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE
If you want to escape – like the Granma survivors did – into the wild and wonderful Sierra Maestra with nary a guide, tour rep or jinetero (tout) to bother you, then try this 20km (out-and-back) DIY hike heading from Marea del Portillo into the undulating mountain foothills.
Starting at the hotel complex, load up on food, water and sun cream, and proceed on foot toward the coast road. Once there, turn right and then, after approximately 400m, hang left onto an unpaved track just before a bridge. The track winds through some fields, joins another wider road and then winds again through a dusty, scattered settlement. On the far side of the village a dam rises above you. Rather than take the paved road up the embankment to the left, branch right and, after 200m, pick up a clear path that rises steeply up above the dam and into view of the lake behind. This beautiful path tracks alongside the lake before crossing one of its river feeds on a wooden bridge. Go straight on and uphill here and, when the path forks on the crest, bear right. Heading down into a verdant tranquil valley, you’ll soon arrive at a casa de campesino (the friendly owners keep bees and will give you honey, coffee, and a geographical reorientation for a small tip). The path continues on here to a river (cross it and continue on) and