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By Root 1508 0

is also hot, in more ways than one. While the temperature rises into the 30s out on the street, jineteros (touts) go about their business in the shadows with a level of ferocity unmatched elsewhere in Cuba. Then there’s the pollution, particularly bad in the central district, where cacophonous motorcycles swarm up and down narrow streets better designed for horses or pedestrians. Travelers should beware. While never particularly unsafe, everything in Santiago feels a little madder, more frenetic, a tad more desperate, and visitors should be prepared to adjust their pace accordingly.

Orientation

The city’s main attractions are in a narrow corridor running east from Parque Céspedes to Plaza de Dolores and Plaza de Marte along Calle José A Saco, the city’s most important shopping street (which becomes a pedestrian mall and street fair on Saturday night). The old residential neighborhoods north and south of this strip also contain some interesting sights. Taken together, this is the city’s casco histórico. The main monuments to the Revolution are along Av de los Libertadores.

The big hotels are in Vista Alegre, 3.5km east of the train station, 2km southeast of the National Bus Station and 1.5km southeast of the Intermunicipal Bus Station. Antonio Maceo International Airport is 7km to the south.

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SANTIAGO DE CUBA STREET NAMES

Welcome to another city where the streets have two names:

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Information

BOOKSTORES

Librería Internacional (Map; 68-71-47; Heredia btwn General Lacret & Félix Peña) On the southern side of Parque Céspedes. Decent selection of political titles in English; sells postcards and stamps.

Librería La Escalera (Map; Heredia No 265; 10am-11pm) A veritable museum of old and rare books stacked ceiling high. Sombrero-clad trovadores (traditional singers) often sit on the stairway and strum.

Librería Manolito del Toro (Map; Saco No 411; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) Good for political literature.

Librería Viet Nam (Map; Aguilera No 567; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) A top bookstore; it’s also open on alternate Saturdays.

CULTURAL CENTERS

Alliance Française (Map; 64-15-03; Calle 6 No 253, Vista Alegre; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) French cultural center with photo exhibitions and a French library. Free films are shown here weekly. Native French speakers are in short supply and are encouraged to pursue cross-cultural exchanges with the Alliance.

EMERGENCY

Asistur (Map; 68-61-28; www.asistur.cu; Heredia No 201) Situated under the Casa Granda Hotel, specializes in offering assistance to foreigners, mainly in the insurance and financial fields.

Police (Map; 116; cnr Corona & Sánchez Hechavarría)

INTERNET ACCESS & TELEPHONE

Etecsa Multiservicios (Map; cnr Heredia & Félix Peña; per hr CUC$6; 8:30am-7:30pm) Three internet terminals in a small office on Plaza Céspedes.

Etecsa Telepunto (Map; cnr Hartmann & Tamayo Fleites; per hr CUC$6; 8:30am-7:30pm)

LIBRARIES

Biblioteca Elvira Cape (Map; 62-46-69; Heredia No 258) The city’s largest public library and one of the nation’s most prestigious.

MEDIA

Radio Mambí CMKW At 1240AM and 93.7FM.

Radio Revolución CMKC Broadcasting over 840AM and 101.4FM.

Radio Siboney CMDV Available at 1180AM and 95.1FM.

Sierra Maestra Local paper published Saturday.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Clínica Internacional Cubanacán Servimed (Map; 64-25-89; cnr Av Raúl Pujol & Calle 10, Vista Alegre; 24hr) Capable staff speak some English. A dentist is also present.

Farmacia Clínica Internacional (Map; 64-25-89; cnr Av Raúl Pujol & Calle 10; 24hr) Best pharmacy in town, selling products in Convertibles.

Farmacia Internacional (Map; 68-70-70; Meliá Santiago de Cuba, cnr Av de las Américas & Calle M; 8am-6pm) In the lobby of the Meliá Santiago de Cuba, it sells products in Convertibles.

Hospital Provincial Saturnino Lora (Map; 64-56-51; Av de los Libertadores) With recompression chamber.

MONEY

Banco de Crédito y Comercio (Map; 62-80-06; Felix Peña No 614) Housed in the jarring modern building in Plaza Céspedes.

Banco Financiero Internacional (Map;