Cuba - Lonely Planet [335]
At the corner of Porfirio Valiente, turn right and see how far 20 centavos get you in the atmospherically austere Café La Isabelica (15; Click here). It’s amazing how tranquil Plaza de Dolores (16; Click here) can be considering the ongoing motorcycle mania. Maybe it’s something they put in the ice cream. Grab one and find out. There are benches to relax on underneath the trees while you weigh up if you’ve got enough energy to check out the Museo Municipal Emilio Bacardí Moreau (17; Click here), Santiago’s – as well as Cuba’s – oldest functioning museum.
Courses
Opportunities for courses abound in Santiago; everything from architecture to music, either official or unofficial. You can sign up for something beforehand, or jump on the bandwagon when you arrive.
LANGUAGE
UniversiTUR (Map; 64-31-86; www.uo.edu.cu; Universidad de Oriente, cnr Calle L & Ampliación de Terrazas) arranges Spanish courses. Monthly rates for 60-hour courses (three hours a day, five days a week) start at CUC$250.
MUSIC & DANCE
Spanish courses, dancing classes and various other specialist activities can be organized at Ateneo (Map; Felix Peña No 755), a cultural organization set up in the late 19th century by lawyer Antonio Bravo Correoso. Bank on CUC$5 for two-hour lessons on salsa dancing, percussion or guitar/tres (a guitar with seven strings and an integral part of son). Another central option is the Casa del Estudiante (Map; 62-78-04; Heredia No 204), where you can organize singing, dancing or percussion lessons under the auspices of Carlos Bourbon of Ballet Folklórico Cutumba fame. There are 11 or so teachers here and classes start at CUC$8 per hour.
The Casa del Caribe (Map; 64-22-85; fax 64-23-87; Calle 13 No 154) organizes dance lessons in conga, son and salsa; it’s CUC$10 for two hours or CUC$5 for one. Resident staff member Juan Eduardo Castillo can also organize lessons in percussion. Real aficionados can inquire about in-depth courses on Afro-Cuban religions and culture. These guys are experts and they’re very flexible.
Another interesting option is an organization called Cuban Rhythm (www.cubanrhythm.com). Take a look at its excellent website and make arrangements beforehand.
Tours
Cubatur (Garzón Map; 65-25-60; fax 68-61-06; Av Garzón No 364 btwn Calles 3 & 4; 8am-8pm; Heredia Map; 68-60-33; Heredia No 701) sells all number of excursions, for everything from La Gran Piedra to El Cobre.
Alternatively, you can arrange your own tour to some of the out-of-town sights with one of the ubiquitous taxis that park in Parque Céspedes in front of the cathedral. Cubataxi cabs should charge approximately CUC$0.50 per kilometer for longer trips. Tot up your expected mileage, factor in some waiting time, and get ready to bargain.
Festivals & Events
Few cities can match the variety and vivacity of Santiago de Cuba’s annual festivals. The summer season begins with the Fiesta de San Juan (June 24), celebrated with processions and conga dancing by cultural associations called focos culturales. Mid- to late June is the time for the Boleros de Oro extravaganza. It’s followed by the Festival del Caribe, Fiesta del Fuego (Festival of Caribbean Culture, Fire Celebration) in early July with exhibitions, song and dance from all around the Caribbean. Santiago de Cuba’s Carnaval, held in the last week of July, is the hottest in Cuba (and possibly the Caribbean), with open-air grandstands erected along Av Garzón. The International Chorus Festival is in late November and the Festival Internacional de Trova is in mid-March.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Casas Particulares
Magalis Palencia Domínguez (Map; 64-10-87; Calle 4 No 204, Reparto Vista Alegre;