Cuba - Lonely Planet [339]
Restaurante Zunzún (Tocororo; Map; 64-15-28; Av Manduley No 159; noon-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) Dine in bygone bourgeois style in this urban mansion-turned-restaurant. Zunzún, in the once upscale Vista Alegre neighborhood, has always been one of Santiago’s best restaurants when it comes to food and ambience. Exotic dishes include chicken curry, paella or a formidable cheese plate and cognac. Expect professional, attentive service and entertaining troubadours.
Restaurante El Morro (Map; 69-15-76; Castillo del Morro; noon-9pm) A gleaming, white plate mounted in a glass case on the wall announces that Paul McCartney once ate here during a whistle-stop 2000 visit (he flew in for four hours from the Turks and Caicos). According to the waiters, the world’s most famous vegetarian made do with an omelette. For meat-eaters, the complete comida criolla lunch (CUC$12) is a better bet, a filling spread that includes soup, roast pork, a small dessert and one drink. The spectacular cliff-side location offers occasional views of breaching whales.
CAFES
Hotel Casa Granda (Map; Casa Granda, Heredia No 201; 9am-midnight) Positioned like a whitewashed theater box overlooking the colorful cabaret of Parque Céspedes, the Casa Granda’s Parisian-style terrace cafe has to be one of the best people-watching locations in Cuba. Food-wise, you’re talking snacks (burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches etc) and service-wise you’re talking impassive, verging on the grumpy; but with this setting, who cares?
Café de la Catedral (Map; General Lacret btwn Heredia & Bartolomé Masó; 8am-9pm) A frigidly air-conditioned new cafe sheltered beneath the cathedral that offers 24 different types of coffee – with a biscuit, if you’re lucky. There are some coffee-farming artifacts scattered around the interior and a colorful cafetal (coffee farm) mural emblazoned on the wall.
Café La Isabelica (Map; cnr Aguilera & Porfirio Valiente; 9am-9pm) Stronger, smokier, darker cantina-type equivalent of Café de la Catedral, with the prices in pesos.
ICE-CREAM PARLORS
Coppelia La Arboleda (Map; 62-04-35; cnr Avs de los Libertadores & Victoriano Garzón; 10am-11:40pm Tue-Sun) Santiago’s ice-cream cathedral is a little out of the center, not that this lessens the queue-length. Yell out ¿Quién es último? (who is last?) and take your place on the Av de los Libertadores side of the parlor. Milkshakes are sometimes sold from the outside window.
Dulcería del Goloso (Map; cnr Av Victoriano Garzón & Calle 6) Got bored waiting in the queues at Coppelia? Head a few blocks along Victoriano Garzón, to this less-frenetic pit stop where you should be enjoying your copa de helado within minutes.
GROCERIES
Supermercado Plaza de Marte (Map; Av Garzón; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) One of the better-stocked supermarkets in town, with a great ice-cream selection and cheap bottled water. It’s in the northeastern corner of Plaza de Marte.
Panadería Doña Neli (Map; cnr Aguilera & Sánchez; 7:30am-8pm) Nice early morning aromas will send you in the direction off this hard-currency bakery on Plaza de Marte.
Municipal market (Map; cnr Aguilera & Padre Pico), the main market, two blocks west of Parque Céspedes, has a poor selection considering the size of the city. There’s another option at Mercado Agropecuario Ferreiro (Map; Nuñez de Balboa) across the traffic circle from Hotel Las Américas and up the side street beside the gas station.
Drinking
Bar La Fontana di Trevi (Map; General Lacret; noon-2am) Could it be that the lounge trend has hit Santiago de Cuba? You might think so walking into this cocoon off José A Saco with low stools grouped around individual tables lining the wall. Just don’t order any apple martinis; it’s strictly peso beer and rum at this cool saloon.
Marylin (Map; 65-45-75; cnr General Lacret & Saco; 24hr) Standing room only at this rough-hewn counter on Saco where