Cuba - Lonely Planet [341]
Patio Los Dos Abuelos (Map; 62-33-02; Francisco Pérez Carbo No 5; admission CUC$2; 10pm-1am Mon-Sat) The old-timers label (abuelos means grandparents) carries a certain amount of truth. This relaxed live-music house is a bastion for traditional son sung the old-fashioned way. The musicians are seasoned pros and most of the patrons are perfect ladies and gentlemen.
Casa de la Cultura Miguel Matamoros (Map; 62-57-10; General Lacret btwn Aguilera & Heredia; admission CUC$1) This cultural stalwart in historic digs on Parque Céspedes hosts many crowded musical events, including rumba and son; check the cartelera (calendar) posted at the door. It also presents some good art expos.
Casa de las Tradiciones (Map; Rabí No 154; admission CUC$1; from 8:30pm) The most discovered ‘undiscovered’ spot in Santiago still retains its smoke-filled, foot-stomping, front-room feel. Hidden in the gentile Tivolí district, some of Santiago de Cuba’s most exciting ensembles, singers and soloists take turns improvising. Friday nights are reserved for straight-up, classic trova, à la Ñico Saquito and the like.
Casa de la Música (Map; Corona No 564; admission CUC$5; 10pm-4am) Similar to the venues in Havana, this Casa de la Música features a mix of live salsa and taped disco and is usually a cracking night out.
DANCE CLUBS
Club El Iris (Map; 65-35-00; Aguilera No 617; admission CUC$3; 10pm-2am) Just off Plaza de Marte, with an old-fashioned neon sign (which rarely works), the Iris is Santiago de Cuba’s loudest, hottest and most ‘happening’ disco. The cover includes one drink, but at night it’s couples only. Things generally get moving around midnight.
Discoteca Espanta Sueño (Map; cnr Av de las Américas & Calle M; 10:30pm-3am Fri-Sun) This is the Meliá Santiago de Cuba’s house disco; entry is through the hotel lobby, ostensibly to keep out jineteras, though they’re more relaxed these days.
Pista de Baile Pacho Alonso (Map; admission CUC$5; 8:30pm Sat, 5pm Sun) Check out the charanga (brass band) orchestra playing alfresco at this place behind Teatro José María Heredia.
CABARET
Tropicana Santiago (Map; 68-70-90; door prices from CUC$35; 10pm Wed-Sun) Anything Havana can do, Santiago can do better – or at least cheaper. Styled on the Tropicana original, this ‘feathers and baubles’ Las Vegas–style floor show is heavily hyped by all the city’s tour agencies who offer it for CUC$35 plus transport (Havana’s show is twice the price, but no way twice as good). Located out of town, 3km north of the Hotel Las Américas, a taxi or rental car is the only independent transport option, making the tour-agency deals a good bet. The Saturday night show is superior.
THEATER
Teatro José María Heredia (Map; 64-31-90; cnr Avs de las Américas & de los Desfiles; box office 9am-noon & 1-4:30pm) Santiago’s huge, modern theater and convention center went up during the city refurbishment in the early 1990s. Rock and folk concerts often take place in the 2459-seat Sala Principal, while the 120-seat Café Cantante Niagara hosts more esoteric events. Ask about performances by the Compañía Teatro Danza del Caribe.
Teatro Martí (Map; 2-0507; Félix Peña No 313) Children’s shows are staged at 5pm on Saturday and Sunday at this theater near General Portuondo, opposite the Iglesia de Santo Tomás.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Sala de Conciertos Dolores (Map; 65-38-57; cnr Aguilera & Mayía Rodríguez; 8:30pm) Housed in a former church on Plaza de Dolores, you can catch the Sinfónica del Oriente here, plus the impressive children’s choir (at 5pm). The cartelera is posted outside.
Orfeón Santiago (Map; Heredia No 68) This classical choir sometimes allows visitors to attend its practice sessions from 9am to 11:30am Monday to Friday.
Coro Madrigalista (Map; Pio Rosado No 555) This choir, across from the Museo Bacardí, is similar to Orfeón Santiago.
CINEMAS
Cine Rialto (Map; 62-30-35; Félix Peña No 654) This cinema, next to