Cuba - Lonely Planet [348]
Marlin-Sigua Dive Center (Cubanacán Náutica; 69-14-46) is a 10-minute walk along the beach from Hotel Costa Morena and picks divers up at the hotels daily. Scuba diving costs CUC$30 with gear, and two boats can take up to 20 people to any of 24 local dive sites. Marlin’s open-water certification course is CUC$300. There are shipwrecks close to shore here and you can feed black groupers by hand. Marlin Bucanero Dive Center ( 68-61-08) offers similar services at Club Bucanero. The water off this bit of coast is some of Cuba’s warmest (25°C to 28°C); best visibility is between February and June.
Generally considered to be the best public beach in the area, Playa Cazonal offers lots of tawny sand, natural shade and a big sandy swimming hole (much of the coast here is clogged with seaweed forests). Turn into the Club Amigo Carisol – Los Corales and then it’s a quick left to the beach access road.
Sleeping
MIDRANGE
Hacienda El Indio – Villa Colibrí (Islazul; 64-13-70; s/d with breakfast low season CUC$30/40) The former El Indio hunting reserve about 20 minutes’ drive out of Santiago is now the Reserva El Indio ‘ecotourism park.’ There are two clusters of villas here, simple chalets set in enticing natural surroundings. The group inland has an attractive rock-hewn swimming pool, while the ones near the beach have a seawater pool. This place is the turf of outdoor types who like to snorkel, horseback ride and hike in the surrounding area.
Hotel Costa Morena (Islazul; 35-61-35; s/d CUC$53/69; ) This place is at Sigua, 44km southeast of Santiago de Cuba and 17km east of the Complejo La Punta Servi-Cupet gas station. It has attractive architecture, a large terrace right on the cliffs, but no direct beach access. A two-star Islazul, it’s popular with Cubans and the odd vacationing Canadian.
TOP END
Club Amigo Carisol – Los Corales (Cubanacán; 35-61-21; s/d all-inclusive CUC$75/105; ) There’s the swim-up bar, umbrellas in the piña coladas, and the government-sponsored band knocking out the 65th rendition of ‘Guantanamera’ as you tuck into your lukewarm buffet dinner. You must be back in all-inclusive land or the Parque Baconao version of it to be more precise. The Carisol – Los Corales is a two-piece Cubanacán resort situated 44km east of Santiago on the coast’s best section of beach (though parts of it have been damaged by successive hurricanes). There’s a tennis court, a disco, multiple day trips on offer, and bright spacious clean rooms (if you get bivouacked in Los Corales). Nonguests can purchase a day pass for CUC$15 including lunch.
Club Bucanero (Gran Caribe; 68-63-63; Carretera de Baconao Km 4; s/d all-inclusive CUC$84/120; ) Tucked beneath low limestone cliffs with a small scratch of beach, this resort at Arroyo La Costa, 25km southeast of Santiago de Cuba, is a beautiful little haven away from the bustle of the city. The rooms are set in a series of attractive gray stone villas and are within earshot of the ocean. A lovely pool area boasts El Morro–like garitas (lookout posts) and the lush mountains beckon invitingly behind.
Eating
Finca El Porvenir ( 62-90-64; Carretera de Baconao Km 18; noon-7pm) Probably the best place to eat out in this neck of the woods, the Finca knocks out no-frills comida criolla specializing in puerco asado en púa (pork roasted Oriente-style on a skewer). It’s finger-licking good.
Casa del Piedra El Cojo ( 35-62-10) The most reliable year-round restaurant out this way – aside from the Fiesta Guajira Rodeo (opposite) – is this peso place just beyond Sigua on the coast. Try the prawn cocktail for about eight pesos.
Restaurante Casa Rolando ( 35-00-04; Carretera Baconao Km 53; 10:30am-5pm) This joint on the north shore of Laguna Baconao serves mainly seafood.
Getting There & Away
Baconao is poorly served by public transport – frustratingly so. You might get as far as Siboney on