Cuba - Lonely Planet [351]
In terms of atmosphere, Chivirico feels like a town from another era, even by Cuban standards, and, while there’s not much to do here in the traditional tourist sense, it’s a good place to pick up on the nuances of everyday Cuban life. The deep, clear waters of the Cayman Trench just offshore wash the many beaches along this portion of the south coast.
There’s a challenging trek that begins at Calentura 4km west of Chivirico and passes through La Alcarraza (12km), crossing the Sierra Maestra to Los Horneros (20km), from where truck transport to Guisa is usually available. Whether skittish local authorities will let you loose in the area is another matter. Don’t just turn up – do your homework in Santiago or Chivirico first. Try asking at Cubatur in Santiago or at one of the two Cubanacán Brisas hotels.
Sleeping
Campismo Caletón Blanco (Cubamar; 62-57-97; Caletón Blanco Km 30, Guamá; s/d CUC$16/26; ) One of two handy campismos situated along this route (the other is La Mula; Click here), Caletón Blanco is the closest to Santiago (30km) and the newest. Open to both international visitors and Cubans are 22 bungalows sleeping two to four people. There’s also a restaurant, snack bar and bike rental available. Campervans are accommodated at this site, which is one of Cubamar’s top picks. Make your reservations with Cubamar’s Havana office Click here before arrival.
Brisas Sierra Mar Los Galeones (Cubanacán; 32-61-60; Carretera Chivirico Km 72; s/d all-inclusive high season CUC$82/118; ) This is a small hotel with big surprises; the setting for instance – high on a bluff with shadowy mountains behind and bucolic life mooing and crowing all around. Then there’s the steep 296-step stairway that takes you down 100m to the tiny beach. Compared with its sister hotel, the Sierra Mar, Los Galeones is quiet (no kids under 16 here) and secluded, but not posh. All in all, a nice place to relax.
Brisas Sierra Mar (Cubanacán; 32-91-10; s/d all-inclusive CUC$104/148; ) This isolated and rather inviting place is at Playa Sevilla, 63km west of Santiago de Cuba and a two-hour drive from the airport. The big, pyramid-shaped hotel is built into a terraced hillside with a novel elevator to take you down to a brown-sand beach famous for its sand fleas. Get into the water quickly and discover a remarkable coral wall great for snorkeling just 50m offshore (dolphins sometimes frequent these waters too). Horseback riding is available, there’s a Marlin Dive Center on the premises, and plenty of special kids’ programs (kids under 13 stay free). The hotel is popular with Canadians and gets a lot of repeat visits. Nonguests can buy a CUC$35 day pass that includes lunch, drinks and sport until 5pm. If you’re doing the south coast by bike, it’s a nice indulgence.
Getting There & Away
Trucks run to Chivirico throughout the day from the Serrano Intermunicipal Bus Station opposite the train station in Santiago de Cuba. There are also three buses a day.
Theoretically, buses and private trucks operate along the south coast from Chivirico to Campismo La Mula, Río Macío (on the border with Granma province) and Pilón, but they are sporadic. Ask around at Chivirico’s bus and truck station 700m up off the coastal road from Cine Guamá.
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EL UVERO
A major turning point in the revolutionary war took place in this nondescript settlement situated 23km west of Chivirico, on May 28, 1957, when Castro’s rebel army – still numbering less than 50 – audaciously took out a government position guarded by 53 of Batista’s soldiers. By the main road are two red trucks taken by the rebels and nearby a double row of royal palms leads to a large monument commemorating the brief but incisive battle. It’s a poignant but little-visited spot.
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PICO TURQUINO AREA
Five kilometers west of Las Cuevas (which is 40km west of El Uvero) is the Museo de la Plata (admission CUC$1; Tue-Sat) at La Plata, next to the river just below the highway. The