Cuba - Lonely Planet [357]
Rafael, Guantánamo
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Entertainment
Guantánamo has its own distinctive musical culture, a subgenre of son known as son-changüí that mixes traditional riffs with Spanish, Afro-Cuban and even French influences. Its main exponent was Guantánamo-born Elio Revé (1930–97), former leader of the Orquesta Revé. You can get a taste at the following venues.
Casa de la Trova (Máximo Gómez No 1062; admission CUC$1; 8pm-1am) Guantánamo has two of these casas, although only this one was functioning at the time of writing. A bright royal-blue building on a quiet urban street, it offers the usual blend of traditional sounds with a son-changüí bias. Closed Monday.
Casa de la Música (Calixto García btwn Flor Crombet & Emilio Giro) Another well-maintained, more concert-orientated venue, with Thursday rap peñas (performances) and Sunday trova (traditional music) matinees.
Tumba Francesa Pompadour (Serafín Sánchez No 715) This peculiarly Guantánamo nightspot situated four blocks east of the train station specializes in a unique form of Haitian-style dancing. Programs (generally listed on the door) include mi tumba baile (tumba dance), encuentro tradicional (traditional get-together) and peña campesina (country music).
Casa de la Cultura ( 32-63-91; Pedro A Pérez; admission free) In the former Casino Español, on the west side of Parque Martí, this venue holds classical concerts and Afro-Cuban dance performances.
Club Nevada ( 35-54-47; Pedro A Pérez No 1008 Altos cnr Bartolomé Masó; admission CUC$1) For the city’s funkiest disco, head to this tiled-terrace rooftop, which blasts out salsa mixed with disco standards.
Cine America (Calixto García) A block north of Parque Martí, this is the city’s best movie house. Check the taped-up posters outside.
Saturday nights are reserved for Noches Guantanameras, when Calle Pedro A Pérez is closed to traffic and stalls are set up in the street. Locals enjoy whole roast pig, belting music and copious amounts of rum. Watch out for the borrachos (drunks)!
Baseball games are played from October to April at the Estadio Van Troi in Reparto San Justo, 1.5km south of the Servi-Cupet gas station. Despite a strong sporting tradition, Guantánamo – nicknamed Los Indios – are perennial underachievers who haven’t made the play-offs since 1999.
Shopping
No one comes to Guantánamo to shop but, if you want a local souvenir that doesn’t have a US flag emblazoned on it, try the Fondo de Bienes Culturales (1st fl, Calixto García No 855) on the east side of Parque Martí.
Photo Service (Los Maceos btwn Aguilera & Flor Crombet) sells film, prints and batteries.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Cubana ( 35-45-33; Calixto García No 817) flies five times a week (CUC$124 one-way, 2½ hours) from Havana to Mariana Grajales Airport ( 35-54-54). There are no international flights to this airport.
BUS & TRUCK
The rather inconveniently placed Terminal de Ómnibus (bus station) is 5km west of the center on the old road to Santiago (a continuation of Av Camilo Cienfuegos). A taxi from the Hotel Guantánamo should cost CUC$3.
There are daily Víazul (www.viazul.com) buses daily to Baracoa (CUC$10, 9:30am) and Santiago de Cuba (CUC$6, 5:25pm).
Trucks to Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa also leave from the Terminal de Ómnibus. These will allow you to disembark in the smaller towns in between.
Trucks for Moa park on the road to El Salvador north of town near the entrance to the Autopista.
CAR
The Autopista Nacional to Santiago de Cuba ends near Embalse La Yaya, 25km west of Guantánamo, where the road joins the Carretera Central (at the time of writing work had begun to extend this road). At El Cristo, 12km outside Santiago de Cuba, you rejoin the Autopista. To drive to Guantánamo from Santiago de Cuba, follow the Autopista Nacional north about 12km to the top of the grade,