Cuba - Lonely Planet [363]
Staying straight on the track, you’ll come to a trio of wooden homesteads. The third of these houses belongs to the Fuentes family. Do not continue alone past this point as you are entering a military zone. For a donation (CUC$3 to CUC$5 per person), Señor Fuentes will lead you on a hike to his family finca, where you can stop for coffee, coconuts and tropical fruit. Further on he’ll show you the Cueva de Aguas, a cave with a sparkling, freshwater swimming hole inside, and tracking back up the hillside (a sure pair of feet are required for this bit) you’ll come to an archaeological trail with some more caves and marvelous views over the ocean.
NORTHWEST OF TOWN
Heading northwest on the Moa road, take the Hotel Porto Santo and airport turning (right) and continue for 2km past the airport runway to Playa Duaba, a black-sand beach at the mouth of the river where Antonio Maceo, Flor Crombet and a score of men landed in 1895 to start the Second War of Independence. There’s a memorial monument here, but the beach itself is nothing special and the sand flies can be ferocious.
The delicious sweet smells filling the air in this neck of the woods are concocted in the famous Fábrica de Chocolate, 1km past the airport turnoff, opened not by Willy Wonka but by Che Guevara in 1963. Half a kilometer further on you’ll pass the equally tempting Fábrica de Cucuruchu where you can buy Baracoa’s sweetest treat, wrapped in an environmentally friendly palm frond, for a few centavos.
Tours
Organized tours are a good way to view Baracoa’s hard-to-reach outlying sights, and the Cubatur office Click here on Plaza Independencia can book most of them. Highlights include: El Yunque (CUC$18), Playa Maguana (CUC$18), Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt (CUC$28), Río Toa (CUC$11) and Boca de Yumurí (CUC$22).
Festivals & Events
During the first week of April, Baracoa commemorates the landing of Antonio Maceo at Duaba on April 1, 1895, with a raucous Carnaval along the Malecón. Every Saturday night, Calle Antonio Maceo is closed off for Noche Baracuensa, when food, drink and music take over.
Sleeping
CASAS PARTICULARES
Casa Colonial – Gustavo & Yalina ( 64-25-36; Flor Crombet No 125 btwn Frank País & Pelayo Cuervo; r CUC$15-20; ) This grand house was built in 1898 by a French sugar baron from Marseille, an esteemed ancestor of the current residents. The big windowless rooms have antique furnishings, and culinary treats include local freshwater prawns and hot (Baracoan) chocolate for breakfast.
Casa Colonial Lucy ( 64-35-48; Céspedes No 29 btwn Rubert López & Antonio Maceo; r CUC$20; ) A perennial favorite, Casa Lucy – which dates from 1840 – has a lovely local character with patios, porches and flowering begonias. There are two rooms as well as terraces here on different levels and the atmosphere is quiet and secluded. Lucy’s son is trilingual and offers salsa lessons and massage.
Nelsy Borges Teran ( 64-35-69; Antonio Maceo No 171 btwn Ciro Frías & Céspedes; r CUC$20; ) The food is better than the room – and the room ain’t half bad. You’ll have no culinary worries at Nelsy’s with plenty of vegetarian options and adventurous deserts. The rooms have TV and stocked fridge (including chocolate) and there’s a great terrace upstairs with rocking chairs overlooking the street.
Casa Colonial Ykira Mahiquez ( 64-24-66; Antonio Maceo No 168A btwn Ciro Frías & Céspedes; r CUC$20; ) Welcoming and hospitable, Ykira is Baracoa’s hostess with the mostess and serves a mean dinner made with homegrown herbs. Her cozy house is one block from the cathedral and full of local charm.
Ina & Alberto ( 64-27-29; Calixto García No 158; r CUC$20-25; ) Perched on a hill at the back of town, this place has good views, two terraces and private entry. Alberto is something of a local guide who knows the region like the back of his hand.
Nilson Abad Guilaré ( 64-31-23; nilson@santiagocaribe.com; Flor Crombet