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are invariably clean, cheap, friendly and, above all, Cuban. They’re also more likely to be situated in the island’s smaller provincial towns. One downside is the blaring on-site discos that often keep guests awake until the small hours. Cubanacán is a step up and offers a nice mix of budget and midrange options in both cities and resort areas. The company has recently developed a new clutch of affordable boutique-style hotels (the Encanto brand) in attractive city centers such as Sancti Spíritus, Baracoa, Remedios and Santiago. Gaviota manages higher-end resorts including glittering 933-room Playa Pesquero, though the chain also has a smattering of cheaper ‘villas’ in places such as Santiago and Cayo Coco. Gran Caribe does midrange to top-end hotels, including many of the all-inclusives in Havana and Varadero. Lastly, Habaguanex is based solely in Havana and manages most of the fastidiously restored historic hotels in Habana Vieja. The profits from these ventures go toward restoring the Unesco World Heritage Site. Because each group has its own niche, throughout this book we mention the chain to which a hotel belongs to give you some idea of what to expect at that particular installation. Except for Islazul properties, tourist hotels are for guests paying in Convertibles only. Since May 2008 Cubans have been allowed to stay in any tourist hotels although financially most of them are still out of reach.

At the top end of the hotel chain you’ll often find foreign chains such as Sol Meliá and Superclubs running hotels in tandem with Cubanacán, Gaviota or Gran Caribe – mainly in the resort areas. The standards and service at these types of places are not unlike resorts in Mexico and the rest of the Caribbean.

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ACTIVITIES

Cuba offers a wealth of exciting outdoor activities. For a full rundown, see the Outdoors chapter, Click here.

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BUSINESS HOURS

Cuban business hours are hardly etched in stone, but offices are generally open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Cubans don’t take a siesta like people in other Latin American countries, so places normally don’t close at midday. Museums and agropecuarios (vegetable markets) are usually closed Monday.

Post offices are open from 8am to 6pm Monday to Saturday, with some main post offices keeping later hours. Banks are usually open from 9am to 3pm weekdays, closing at noon on the last working day of each month. Cadeca exchange offices are generally open from 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday, and from 9am to noon Sunday.

Pharmacies are generally open from 8am to 8pm, but those marked turno permanente or pilotos are open 24 hours.

In retail outlets everything grinds to a halt during the cambio de turno (shift change) and you won’t be able to order a beer or buy cigarettes until they’re done doing inventory (which can take anywhere from 10 minutes to one hour). Shops are usually closed after noon on Sunday.

Throughout this book, any exceptions to these hours are given in specific listings.

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CHILDREN

Children are encouraged to talk, sing, dance, think, dream and play, and are integrated into all parts of society: you’ll see them at concerts, restaurants, church, political rallies (giving speeches even!) and parties. Travelers with children will find this embracing attitude heaped upon them, too.

In Cuba there are many travelers with kids, especially Cuban-Americans visiting family with their children; these will be your best sources for on-the-ground information. One aspect of the local culture that parents may find foreign (aside from the material shortages) is the physical contact and human warmth that is so typically Cuban: strangers ruffle kids’ hair, give them kisses or take their hands with regularity. For more general advice, see Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children.

Practicalities

Many simple things aren’t available in Cuba or are hard to find, including baby formula, diaper wipes, disposable diapers, crayons, any medicine, clothing, sunblock etc. On the upside, Cubans are very