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themselves by handing out money, soap, pens, chewing gum and other things to people on the street. Sadly, it seems that some Cubans have dropped out of productive jobs because they’ve found it is more lucrative to hustle tourists or beg than to work. It’s painful for everyone when beggars earn more money than doctors. If you truly want to do something to help, pharmacies and hospitals will accept medicine donations, schools happily take pens, paper, crayons etc, and libraries will gratefully accept books. Alternatively pass stuff onto to your casa particular owner. Hustlers are called jineteros/jineteras (male/female touts), and can be a real nuisance.

If you’re sensitive to smoke, you’ll choke in Cuba, and despite government laws supposedly banning smoking in public places, people appear to light wherever and whenever they like.

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GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs ( 1300 139 281; www.smarttraveller.gov.au)

British Foreign Office ( 0845-850-2829; www.fco.gov.uk)

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs ( 800-267-6788; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca)

US State Department ( 888-407-4747; http://travel.state.gov)

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Despite the many strides Cuba has made since the Revolution in stamping out racial discrimination, traces still linger and visitors of non-European origin are more likely to attract the attention of the police than those that look obviously non-Cuban. Latin, South Asian or black visitors may have to show passports to enter hotels and other places from which ordinary Cubans are barred (under the pretext that they think you’re Cuban). Likewise, racially mixed pairs (especially black-white couples) will usually encounter more questions, demanding of papers and hassle than other travelers.

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EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

Most embassies are open from 8am to noon on weekdays.

Australia See Canada.

Austria (Map; 7-204-2825; Calle 4 No 101, Miramar, Havana)

Canada Havana (Map; 7-204-2517; Calle 30 No 518, Playa); Varadero (Map; 45-61-20-78; Calle 13 No 422 btwn Av 1 & Camino del Mar) Also represents Australia.

Denmark (Map; 7-33-81-28; 4th fl, Paseo de Martí No 20, Centro Habana, Havana)

France (Map; 7-204-2308; Calle 14 No 312 btwn Avs 3 & 5, Miramar, Havana)

Germany (Map; 7-833-2539; Calle 13 No 652, Vedado, Havana)

Italy (Map; 7-204-5615; Av 5 No 402, Miramar, Havana)

Japan (Map; 7-204-3508; Miramar Trade Center, cnr Av 3 & Calle 80, Playa, Havana)

Mexico (Map; 7-204-7722; Calle 12 No 518, Miramar, Havana)

Netherlands (Map; 7-204-2511; Calle 8 No 307 btwn Avs 3 & 5, Miramar, Havana)

New Zealand See UK.

Russia (Map; Av 5 No 6402 btwn Calles 62 & 66, Playa, Havana)

Spain (Map; 7-866-8029; Cárcel No 51, Centro Habana, Havana)

Sweden (Map; 7-204-2831; fax 7-204-1194; Calle 34 No 510, Miramar, Havana)

Switzerland (Map; 7-204-2611; Av 5 No 2005, btwn Avs 20 & 22, Miramar, Havana)

UK (Map; 7-204-1771; Calle 34 No 708, Miramar, Havana) Also represents New Zealand.

USA (Map; 7-833-3026; US Interests Section, Calzada btwn Calles L & M, Vedado, Havana)

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FOOD

It will be a very rare meal in Cuba that costs over CUC$25. In this book, restaurant listings are presented in the following order: budget (meals for under CUC$5), midrange (meals for CUC$5 to CUC$10) and top end (meals for over CUC$10). Restaurant are generally open from 11am to 11pm daily. Before you dig in, check out the detailed information in the Food & Drink chapter.

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GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS

While Cuba can’t be called a queer destination (yet), it’s more tolerant than many other Latin American countries. The hit movie Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate, 1994) sparked a national dialogue about homosexuality, and Cuba is pretty tolerant, all things considered. People from more accepting societies may find this tolerance too ‘don’t ask, don’t tell’ or tokenistic (everybody has a gay friend/relative/coworker,