Cuba - Lonely Planet [392]
Colectivos & Máquinas
Colectivos are taxis running on fixed, long-distance routes, leaving when full. They are generally pre-1959 American cars that belch diesel fumes and can squash in at least three people across the front seat. State-owned taxis that charge in Convertibles hanging about bus stations are faster and usually cheaper than the bus. State-owned peso taxis and private peso taxis (máquinas) are prohibited from taking foreigners (except the carnet-carrying kind; Click here).
Horse Carriage
Many provincial cities have coches de caballo (horse carriages) that trot on fixed routes and cost one peso.
Taxi
Tourists are only supposed to take taxis that charge in Convertibles, including the little yellow coco-taxis (three-wheel, egg-shaped taxis that hold two to three people). Car taxis are metered and cost CUC$1 to start and CUC$1 per kilometer. Taxi drivers are in the habit of offering foreigners a flat, off-meter rate that usually works out very close to what you’ll pay with the meter. The difference is that with the meter, the money goes to the state to be divided up; without the meter it goes into the driver’s pocket. Coco-taxis are not metered and cost CUC$0.50 per kilometer.
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TOURS
Of the many tourist agencies in Cuba, the following are the most useful:
Cubamar Viajes ( 7-833-2523/4; www.cubamarviajes.cu) Rents campismo cabins and mobile homes (caravans).
Cubanacán ( 7-873-2686; www.cubanacan.cu) General tour agency that also has divisions called Cubanacán Náutica (scuba diving, boating and fishing) and Turismo Y Salud (surgery, spas and rehabilitation).
Cubatur ( 7-835-4155)
Ecotur ( 7-204-5188)
Gaviota ( 7-204-4411; www.gaviota-grupo.com)
Havanatur ( 7-835-3720; www.havanatur.cu) Works with Marazul Tours in the US.
Paradiso ( 7-832-9538/9; paradis@paradiso.artex.com.cu) Multiday cultural and art tours.
San Cristóbal Agencia de Viajes ( 7-861-9171; fax 7-860-9585; www.viajessancristobal.cu)
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TRAIN
Cuba was the sixth country in the world to get a railway (before Spain even) and, as a result, it is proud of its extensive network – however antiquated it might be. Public railways operated by Ferrocarriles de Cuba serve all of the provincial capitals and are a great way to experience Cuba if you have time and patience. As a Cuban traveler said, ‘80% of the trains are late and the other 20% are cancelled.’ While train travel is safe, the departure information provided in this book is purely theoretical. Getting a ticket is usually no problem as there’s a quota for tourists paying in Convertibles.
Foreigners must pay for their tickets in cash, but prices are reasonable and the carriages, though old and worn, are fairly comfortable, offering lots of local color. The toilets are foul. Watch your luggage on overnight trips and bring some of your own food. Only the Tren Francés has snack facilities although vendors often come through the train selling coffee (you supply the cup).
The Hershey Train is the only electric railway in Cuba and was built by the Hershey Chocolate Company in the early years of the 20th century; it’s a fun way to get between Havana and Matanzas (see boxed text,).
Classes
Trains are either especial (air-conditioned, faster trains with fewer departures), regular (slowish trains with daily departures) or lecheros (milk trains that stop at every dinky town on the line). Trains on major routes such as Havana–Santiago de Cuba will be especial or regular trains.
Costs
Regular trains cost under CUC$3 per 100km, while especial trains cost closer to CUC$5.50 per 100km. The Hershey Train is priced like the regular trains.
Reservations
In most train stations, you just go to the ticket window and buy a ticket. In Havana, there’s a separate waiting room and ticket window for passengers paying in Convertibles in La Coubre train station. Be prepared to show your passport when purchasing tickets. It’s always wise to check beforehand at the station for current