Cuba - Lonely Planet [49]
Cuban fast-food chains El Rápido and Pollo make McDonald’s look like a health-food store and are best avoided unless you are suffering from exceedingly severe hunger pangs.
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VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
In a land of rationing and food shortages, strict vegetarians (ie no lard, no meat bullion, no fish) will have a hard time. Cubans don’t really understand vegetarianism and, when they do (or when they say they do), it can be summarized rather adroitly in one key word: omelette – or, at a stretch, scrambled eggs. The other problem is preparation. Even if your omelette has no meat in it, don’t assume that it has been prepared in a manner that is in any way sympathetic to vegetarian requirements. Indeed, Cubans often interpret vegetarianism as ‘no meat chunks in the soup.’ The solution: pick out the offending items out just before serving. Thankfully change is on the horizon. The opening of a handful of new vegetarian restaurants in Havana has coincided with a nationwide educational campaign about the health benefits of a vegetarian diet. Furthermore, cooks in casas particulares who may already have had experience cooking meatless dishes for other travelers are usually more than happy to accommodate vegetarians; just ask.
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TIPPING & RESERVATIONS
Remembering to tip is important in Cuba. In a country where the doctors work as waiters and the waiters double up as musicians serenading mojito-sipping tourists as they tuck tentatively into moros y cristianos (rice and beans), a couple of Convertibles left in the bread basket at the end of the meal can effectively make or break a person’s week. It is important to bear in mind that most of these people earn their salaries in moneda nacional (pesos), which works out to the equivalent of US$10 to US$25 a month. Access to hard currency is necessary to make up the shortfall. However mediocre your food, a Convertible or two isn’t just a show of appreciation; it’s a vital contribution to the local economy.
In Cuba, a 10% to 15% tip is sufficient, with CUC$1 being the appropriate minimum in a restaurant that accepts Convertibles. Tipping in peso restaurants is not compulsory, but is greatly appreciated. Leaving 10 pesos or CUC$0.50 change is a generous tip.
Unless you’re in a large group or want to eat at one of the chic, trendy paladares (such as La Guarida in Havana; Click here), there’s no need for a reservation.
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Vegans have little choice but to cook for themselves. Many people rent rooms with kitchen privileges or entire self-sufficient apartments. It’s not easy, but like all things in Cuba, it’s possible. Other options for serious vegans and/or vegetarians:
Agropecuarios Vegetable markets; also sell rice, beans, fruit (for a list of Havana’s best markets, Click here).
Organopónicos Organic vegetable markets.
Proteina vegetal Dried soy protein (sold in bodegas).
Spirulina Spirulina powder (an aquatic plant offering high protein and vitamins).
Yogurt de soya Soy yogurt (sold in bodegas; regular yogurt is sold in stores that sell goods in Convertibles).
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EATING WITH KIDS
With a dearth of exotic spices and an emphasis on good, plain, nonfancy food, kids in Cuba are often surprisingly well accommodated. The family-orientated nature of life on the island certainly helps. Few eating establishments turn away children, and waiters and waitresses in most cafes and restaurants will, more often than not, dote on your boisterous young offspring and go out of their way to try to accommodate their unadventurous childish tastes. Rice and beans are good staples and chicken and fish are relatively reliable sources of protein. The main lacking ingredient – though your kid probably won’t think so – is a regular supply of fresh vegetables. Consider bringing a vitamin supplement, as the paltry cabbage and cucumber salads that pass for spring greens in many Cuban restaurants will challenge even the most mature palates.
Cuba’s ubiquitous range of tropical