Cuba - Lonely Planet [59]
* * *
The Vuelta a Cuba is a multistage bike race now in its 45th year. The 2009 event covered 1780km in 13 stages beginning in Baracoa.
* * *
The main problem with procuring bikes in Cuba is that their quality is almost always substandard and, with the poor state of some of the roads, you’ll often feel more like you’re sitting atop an improvised coat hanger than a well-oiled machine. Serious cyclists should bring their boxed bikes from home on the airplane along with plenty of spare parts and reconfigure them in Cuba.
Cycling highlights include the Viñales valley Click here, the spin from Trinidad down to Playa Ancón Click here, the quiet lanes that zigzag through Guardalavaca, and the roads out of Baracoa to Playa Maguana (northwest) and Boca de Yumurí (southeast). For a bigger challenge try La Farola (see boxed text,) between Cajobabo and Baracoa (21km of ascent), the bumpy but spectacular coast road between Santiago and Marea del Portillo – best spread over three days with overnights in Brisas Sierra Mar and Campismo La Mula – or, for real wheel warriors, the insanely steep mountain road from Bartolomé Masó to Santo Domingo in Granma province.
With a profusion of casas particulares offering cheap, readily available accommodation, cycle touring is a joy here – just keep off the Autopista and steer clear of Havana and you’ll be fine.
Off-road biking has not yet taken off in Cuba and is generally not permitted.
Return to beginning of chapter
FISHING
Hemingway wasn’t wrong. Cuba’s fast-moving Gulf Stream along the north coast supports prime game fishing for sailfish, swordfish, tuna, mackerel, barracuda, marlin and shark, pretty much year-round. Fishing is a rite of passage for many and a great way to wind down, make friends, drink beer, watch sunsets and generally leave the troubles of the world behind. Not surprisingly, the country has great facilities for sport anglers and every Cuban boat captain seems to look and talk as if he’s walked straight from the pages of a Hemingway classic.
* * *
Gregorio Fuentes, the captain of Hemingway’s fishing boat Pilar, was often credited as the model for the character of Santiago in the novel The Old Man and the Sea. He died at the age of 104 in 2002.
* * *
Cuba’s best deep-sea fishing center is Cayo Guillermo – the small island that featured in Islands in the Stream (then uninhabited). Papa might have gone, but the fish still swim freely. Another good bet is Havana, which has two marinas, one at Tarará Click here and the other – better one – at Marina Hemingway Click here to the west.
Elsewhere, all of Cuba’s main resort areas offer deep-sea fishing excursions for similar rates. Count on paying approximately CUC$280/450 per half-/full day for four people including crew and open bar.
Shore casting for bonefish and tarpon is practiced off the south coast at Jardines de la Reina (see boxed text,).
Freshwater fishing in Cuba is lesser known but equally rewarding and many Americans and Canadians hone in on the island’s many lakes. Fly-fishing is superb in vast Ciénaga de Zapata in Matanzas, where enthusiasts can arrange multiday catch-and-release trips. Trucha (largemouth bass) was first introduced into Cuba in the early 20th century by Americans at King’s Ranch and the United Fruit Company. Due to favorable environmental protection, the fish is now abundant in many Cuban lakes and many experts believe the next world-record bass (currently 9.9kg) will come from Cuba. Good places to cast a line are the Laguna del Tesoro in Matanzas, the Laguna de la Leche and Laguna la Redonda in Ciego de Ávila province, Embalse Zaza in Sancti Spíritus and Embalse Hanabanilla in Villa Clara – 7.6kg specimens have been caught here! To meet other fishermen, head for La Casona in Morón Click here, Hotel Zaza in Sancti Spíritus or Hotel Hanabanilla in Villa Clara province Click here.
Return to beginning of chapter
SNORKELING
You don’t have to go very deep to