Cuba - Lonely Planet [96]
Paladar La Guarida ( 866-9047; Concordia No 418 btwn Gervasio & Escobar; noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight) Located on the top floor of a spectacularly dilapidated Havana tenement, La Guarida’s lofty reputation rests on its movie-location setting (Fresa y Chocolate was filmed in this building) and a clutch of swashbuckling newspaper reviews (including the New York Times and the Guardian). The food, as might be expected, is up there with Havana’s best, shoehorning its captivating blend of Nueva Cocina Cubana into dishes such as sea bass in a coconut reduction, and chicken with honey and lemon sauce. Reservations required.
VEDADO
Vedado’s once-splendid paladares are fighting a losing battle against high rents and nit-picking government regulations. Although few new places open these days, there are a handful of stalwart survivors.
Paladar Los Amigos (Calle M No 253; noon-midnight) Paladar Los Amigos, situated in the back of a prerevolutionary house on the corner of Calles M and 19 near the Hotel Victoria, serves good Cuban meals for CUC$10, including side plates. It’s enthusiastically recommended by locals.
El Gringo Viejo ( 831-1946; Calle 21 No 454 btwn Calles E & F; noon-11pm) The Gringo offers a good atmosphere and large portions of invariably brilliant food. Locals and visitors love it for its speedy service, fine wine list and big portions of more adventurous plates, such as smoked salmon with olives and Gouda or crabmeat in red sauce (CUC$10 to CUC$12).
Paladar Aries ( 831-9668; Av Universidad No 456 Bajos btwn Calles J & K; noon-midnight) Traditional Cuban fare mixed with what are generously referred to as ‘international dishes,’ this nicely decked-out, family-run place with occasional wandering trovadores (traditional singers/songwriters) is conveniently located behind the university.
Decameron ( 832-2444; Línea No 753 btwn Paseo & Calle 2; meals CUC$12-15; noon-midnight; ) Ugly from the outside, but far prettier within, the Decameron is an intimate Italian-influenced restaurant where you can order from the varied menu with abandon. Veggie pizza, lasagna bolognese, steak au poivre and a divine calabaza soup: it’s all good. On top of that, there’s a decent wine selection and the kitchen is sympathetic to vegetarians.
Paladar El Hurón Azul ( 879-1691; Humboldt No 153; meals CUC$15-20; noon-midnight Tue-Sun) This place is often touted as one of Havana’s best private restaurants and, although the food might be tasty, the windowless interior combined with the preponderance of after-dinner smokers can leave your meal tasting more like nicotine than comida criolla. Nonetheless, the Hurón Azul (Blue Ferret) boasts plenty of original food and is locally famous for its adventurous smoked pork served with a pineapple salsa. That said, it’s not cheap, averaging CUC$15 a pop plus a 10% service charge added to every bill. Reserve ahead.
Paladar Marpoly ( 832-2471; Calle K No 154 btwn Línea & Calle 11; noon-1am) An unsignposted – and hence hard to find – paladar just off Calle Línea, the Marpoly offers good food, including a seafood platter and a great selection of wines, in luxurious surroundings. Ask a neighbor if in doubt about the location.
Restaurants
HABANA VIEJA
Restaurante Puerto de Sagua ( 867-1026; Av de Bélgica No 603; noon-midnight) This nautical-themed eating joint in Habana Vieja’s grittier southern quarter is characterized by its small porthole-style windows and serves mostly seafood at reasonable prices (CUC$5 to CUC$8). The jacketed waiters are courteous and friendly.
Al Medina ( 867-1041; Oficios No 12 btwn Obrapía & Obispo; noon-midnight) Havana takes on the Middle East in this exotic restaurant, appropriately situated in one of the city’s 17th-century mudéjar-style buildings. Tucked into a beautiful patio off Calle Oficios, Al Medina is where you can dine like a Moroccan sheik