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By Root 672 0

one of the world’s great Darwin scholars, Charles’ great-grandson Richard Darwin Keynes, whose contribution to Darwin research, including published transcriptions of Darwin’s diary and zoology notes, made this book possible. In Shrewsbury, I was hospitably received by Rich Woolland and his Shrewsbury mates—thanks Miles, Mozza, and Becky.

I was fortunate to wander with two of the very best traveling companions. In Uruguay, Buenos Aires, and England, I followed in the footsteps of the incomparable, indefatigable, indomitable, and best of all, probably incurable, Nathan Cooper. Thanks for the sheep, the driving, and the tour of the Worcester china factory, and it’s your turn to visit me, mate. In Chile, I chucked rocks and downed pisco with Josh Braun, a true Darwin-style scientific generalist, a great thinker, and still the kindest person I know, even after three weeks of being dragged to rain-soaked Darwin sites.

I wrote most of this book while I was a student at the University of California Berkeley Graduate School of Journalism, and I owe a great deal to three teachers there: Cynthia Gorney, Michael Pollan, and most especially Russ Rymer, a musician of English prose and possessor of cosmic perspective. I also am indebted to my J-school colleagues, a group that is WAY better than the journalism overlords deserve. In particular, thanks to Larry Santana for reading an early draft, Tim Lesle for geological advice and carpooling, and inspiring comrades Cynthia Dizikes, David Gelles, Malia Wollan, and Charles Robert Foster.

Outside the journalism school, I received encouragement, advice, and editing suggestions from Hannah Naughton and Pamm Higgins. My agent, Diana Finch, managed to steer this book into being with enthusiasm and patience, and plus, she had the perfect name for the job. My editor at The Overlook Press, David Shoemaker, did a thorough, thoughtful edit for which I am deeply grateful.

Thanks most of all to my two longtime wing-people: Sarah Healy, for inspirational cheerfulness and a fun few days of touring Darwin’s houses, and Brendan Buhler, who hates this sort of thing but really has earned it a million times over.

One last anecdote. Back in England and nearing thirty, Darwin drew up a pro-and-con sheet on the subject of marriage. “Constant companion (& friend in old age) who will be interested in one,” swung the argument; at the bottom of the page he scrawled, “Marry—Marry—Marry. QED.” The pros won handily, as they did for me. And so, finally, thanks to my wife Hari, who at this point could write the book More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Young Charles Darwin, but hasn’t.

INDEX

Adventure

Africa

All Saints Bay

Alto da Boa Vista

Amolanas Hacienda

Ancud

Andacollo

Andes

Andwandter, Philip

Anson, George

Antarctica

Archer, Manuel Gomes

Argentina

Arizona

Atlantic

Australia

Bahia

Bahia Blanca

Bahia, Salvador da

Banderas, Antonio

Basket, Fuegia

Beagle

Beagle Channel

Bell Mountain / Cerro la Campana

Bolivia

Borges, Jorge Luis

Botafogo

Brazil

Buenos Aires

Bush, George W.

Button, James (Jemmy)

Caleueche

California

Cambridge

Cambridgeshire

Canada

Cape Curious

Cape Horn

Cascatinha Taunay

Castro

Cerro Blanco

Cerro Tres Picos

Chatwin, Bruce

Chavez, Hugo

Chile

Chiloé

Chinas

Churchill, Winston

Cochrane, Admiral Lord Thomas

Colonia del Sacramento

Colorado River

Cook, Captain

Concepción

Copacabana

Copiapó

Coquimbo

Córdoba

Cormorant Island

Cruz, Don Benito

Cucao

Cusco

Darwin, Caroline (?)

Darwin, Catherine

Darwin, Emma

Darwin, Susan

Darwin, William

De Viedma, Antonio

Descent of Man, The

Desmond, Adrian

D’Orbigny, Alcide

Down House

Drake, Francis

Drexler, Daniel

Drexler, Jorge

El Calafate

Elqui / Elque

England

Estancia Funke

Estancia Rincón Grande

Europe

Falkland Islands

FitzRoy, Robert

Fiura

Floridablanca

France

Funke, Rodolfo

Galapagos

Gay, Claudio

Germany

Gil, Gilberto

Ginza

Glacier National Park

Golden Hind

Gonzales, Mariane

Gould, John

Great Britain

Guanabara Bay

Hawaii

Henslow, J. S.

Holland

Huxley,