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By Root 222 0

additional quart of water, and chopped shells and simmered the mixture gently for an hour or so. Toward the end, I added the tomalley and coral, some dry sherry, a little white pepper, a dash of Tabasco, and salt to taste. Then I strained out the solids, including the shells, ground them in a food processor with a little of the liquid, and pressed the ground mixture through a strainer into the rest of the liquid, creating the equivalent of the Seafood Shop’s commercial lobster base. I mixed a tablespoon of cornstarch or arrowroot into a cup of the liquid, returned it to the pot with a half-cup of heavy cream and a little lemon juice to taste, and stirred the mixture over a lowflame until it thickened slightly; then I added the lobster meat, sprinkled some chopped green onion, some snipped tarragon and parsley on top, and adjusted the seasoning. This is not as complicated as it sounds, but if you factor in the cost of the ingredients and the time spent at the stove, the Seafood Shop bisque is the obvious choice. Perhaps someday the Seafood Shop will freeze its bisques and chowders and offer them online.

JASPER WHITE’S PAN-ROASTED LOBSTER

Eventually, the brilliance of Robuchon’s lobster in Sauternes will fade with familiarity, and I will return to an old favorite, Jasper White’s pan-roasted lobster, the very dish I was preparing when my lobsters raised their claws in horror and bolted. I discovered this dish in Jasper White’s Boston restaurant and later found the recipe in Julia Child’s In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs. It is practically foolproof, takes ten minutes from start to finish, and beautifully combines the tender lobster with olive oil, Cognac, shallots, chives, and tarragon, a heavenly combination. Turn the oven on to 500 degrees and bring a two-quart pot of water to a boil. Split two pound-and-a-half hard-shell lobsters by placing them top side up on a cutting board and plunging a stiff boning knife into the head, just behind the eyes, splitting the head in two. Then turn the knife the other way and split the body and tail. There is no reason to be squeamish about this. The lobster will die immediately, though it may continue to twitch as its nervous system subsides. Remove the black vein from the tail, discard the eight small legs, twist off the claws, and separate the lobster halves so that you can manipulate them easily when you pan-roast them. Poach the claws in the boiling water for five minutes. Cool them under cold water, and crack them open with the back of a heavy knife. Remove the claw meat in one piece if possible, by wiggling the small part of the claw, and in large chunks from the knuckles. Heat two skillets, each large enough to hold one lobster, or a single skillet large enough for two. I use a twelve-inch nonreactive skillet, which just accommodates the four halves. When the skillets are hot, film them with good-quality olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the lobsters, shell side down, and turn them with tongs this way and that, until the shells turn red all over. Add more oil if necessary, but keep the flame high. In three or four minutes, the shells will be red. Turn the lobsters over for a minute or so, long enough to sear the meat, and pop the pan or pans into the hot oven for three minutes. Remove the pan or pans from the oven with a damp towel. The handles will be fiercely hot. Put the lobster halves on a platter, shell side down. The shells may be slightly charred at the edges. Test for doneness by lifting the meat from the shell with a fork. If it lifts out easily, it’s done. If not, return it to the oven for another minute or two. Then remove the lobsters to the platter. Add butter to the pan or pans, and sauté some chopped shallots until they soften. Pour three shot glasses of good but not great Cognac into the pan or pans, stand back, and flame the heated Cognac with a butane lighter or a long match, or simply heat the Cognac and tip the pan gently toward the flames until the vapors ignite. Don’t be alarmed—the flames will quickly subside. Then combine the contents if you are