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By Root 177 0

I ordered a dish simply described as Chicken (with olives, lemon, and chickpea fries). It sounded simple enough and looked very light and clean—a very contemporary presentation like many other New York dishes at the time. And then, one bite, the flavors exploded, and I was taken back to Yacout—but this was New York. What was happening? I discovered, eventually, what more seasoned chefs already had. Flavors, feelings, moods, and ideas were transportable. The higher-end chefs were not simply cooks; they were artists, inspired by real-life experience and emotion. In the beginning, as in any art, it appears that replication may be taking place, but the reality is that inspiration may appear in a variety of forms. In this case, it was clear that Jean-Georges had probably shared a similar experience to mine and applied that to his own brand of cuisine. He found an avenue to reapply experience—in this case, taste memory—into his art.

With raw food, outside influences are very important. With a short history of culinary imagination, the cuisine is still in its infancy. In order for it to reach its highest potential, it is necessary to connect with individuals on an emotional and physical level, and then, on a more basic note, as a chef. I’d like to point out that the preparation of raw food is so new that I can’t think of a better canvas for creative food.

When I initially became involved in raw food, my early influences were traditional dishes that were well known: lasagna, ravioli, pasta, and so forth. Over the past couple of years, my style has evolved well beyond that, and I now find that the most interesting cuisine is based on life—or art that represents life experience. Whether it is film, sculpture, architecture, or music, I believe that the path to the highest level of this cuisine is through its relationship to art; and for that reason, much of my food is influenced by it. The best dishes have come from this concept—the inspiration may be the Rolling Stones, Salvador Dali, or The Wizard of Oz. The importance of a connection to deeper meaning is paramount. Often, the concept is simpler, such as a black-and-white dinner that I once did: foods that were black and white and nothing more. The important element is to push the boundaries, find the core, and, ultimately, provide a great experience for guests.

Hijiki and Kohlrabi with Sweet Tahini Dressing

Hijiki is extremely easy to work with, and this recipe can be prepared in a few minutes. Since the vegetables remain crisper and brighter when freshly cut, it is best made just before serving. I find that hijiki is suited to a creamy dressing, and the texture and nutty flavor of tahini is well matched in this dish, providing a simple but interesting contrast of black and white.

Hijiki

3 cups hijiki seaweed

1 kohlrabi, peeled, thinly sliced, and cut into desired shapes

Dressing

1/2 cup raw agave

2/3 cup tahini

1/4 cup water

1/3 cup miso

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt

Garnish

Salt and pepper to taste

Chives, cut in 1-inch lengths

White sesame seeds

Hijiki Soak hijiki in warm water 20–30 minutes and drain.

Dressing Blend all ingredients in a Vita-Mix.

Assembly Dress the hijiki and 2/3 of the kohlrabi with just enough dressing to coat lightly. Season with salt and pepper. Pour a pool of dressing on plates and top with hijiki. Garnish with kohlrabi, chives, and sesame seeds. Serves 4–6

Black-and-White Tofu, Trumpet Mushroom Salad, Sesame Enoki Mushrooms, White Asparagus, and Miso Broth

Often, in the pursuit of art, I purposely work within concepts that apply narrow limitations. The results, like the movements of a contortionist, are always interesting. The purpose of this exploration is not solely to be creative or different but to better understand the possibilities within the cuisine. The black-and-white menu was one of the most challenging menus I’ve done, and I learned a great deal from it, including how to prepare this tasty and dramatic recipe.

White Tofu

1 cup cashews, soaked 1–2 hours

1/2 cup fresh young Thai coconut meat

1/2 cup